Royal Mountain Travel Magazine Royal Mountain Travel Magazine Issue 3 | Page 34

STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN:
A weekend in Chisapani and
the Shivapuri Forest

by Glennis Pallier

Chisapani with Himalayas on backdrop. Photo: RMT.

Late autumn, winter and early spring, as everyone knows, are
the perfect times to head to the hills surrounding Kathmandu,
to view the mountains and “chill” out, and the favourite spots
are Nagarkot and Dhulikhel. But with a little more energy and
a smaller budget, why not try Chisapani? Sure, it is possible to
drive there now, rather uncomfortably though, but it is the walk
up and down the stairs from Sundarijal which make the end
destination worth the aching muscles.
The northern part of the Kathmandu Valley rises to the sprawling
forests of the Shivapuri Nagarjun Forest, upgraded to national
park status in 2002 to protect the valley’s main water source,
as well as 177 species of birds and numerous rare orchids.
Butterflies were flitting in great numbers particularly near
streams. This is one of the last areas of woodland left in the
valley, and the forest is reported to support monkeys, barking
deer, civets, mongoose, reptiles and even leopards and bears.
Shivapuri National Park covers 159 square kilometers and the
sacred Bagmati and Vishnumati rivers which run through the
valley have their origins within this park. Shivapuri Peak is the
highest point at 2,732 meters and is the second highest in the

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May 2014

valley. Climbing it is popular with locals and tourists alike.
The easiest and most popular way to Chisapani is to start from
Sundarijal at the foot of Shivapuri Forest in the northeast corner
of the valley. From the Sundirijal bus park it is a stroll through the
town past a few shops, cafes and resorts set amidst rocky outcrops,
and a large Shiva lingum on the left hand side. After 10 minutes
the trail is easily recognisable as it follows the water pipeline uphill.
You are warned now that the hike to Chisapani is 90% uphill to
a maximum elevation of 2,430 meters, then 300 meters or so
downhill to the hamlet of Chisapani itself. It is not a difficult walk
and the average walking time is 4-5 hours. However, don’t rush it
and you will be rewarded with some of the prettiest hill views in the
Kathmandu Valley area. The trail is well maintained with smooth
steps and some short pleasant sections of soft earth, leaf strewn,
through the forest.
After crossing the small dam by an ancient looking hydro plant
where much of Kathmandu’s drinking water is sourced, proceed
upwards through the rhododendron forest to the Park entrance.
The pricing structure changes frequently, but in November 2014