The forced-air furnace is also a heavy user of 12-volt-DC power. This is usually not a concern if you’ re plugged into 30-amp or 50-amp electrical service, but it is crucial if you’ re dry camping without hookups. Take the time to determine the amperage draw of the furnace system in the RV and try to estimate how many hours per day the furnace will be operating. Then do the calculation to see just how much battery storage capacity you’ ll need.
As mentioned earlier, using portable space heaters whenever shore power is available will not only help conserve propane gas, it also will keep that battery bank charged. Using electric blankets on your bed at night also can help conserve fuel, as it allows you to lower the furnace thermostat.
The absorption refrigerator, however, may experience other issues. In extremely low temperatures, the refrigerator simply may not operate. The internal contents of the sealed absorption system include water, liquefied ammonia, hydrogen gas, and sodium chromate, the chemical used to protect the internal pipes from the corrosiveness of the ammonia.
During a typical cycle, either an electric heating element or a propane burner applies heat. During the process of removing the heat from inside the refrigerator and freezer( the absence of heat is cold), the water and liquid ammonia are boiled and evaporated, then condensed back into a liquid over and over. And since water freezes at 32 degrees Fahrenheit... well, you can begin to see how very low temperatures can have an effect on absorption refrigeration, just as much as extremely high temperatures. The cooling core is attached to the rear of the refrigerator, not within the heated house portion of the RV.
Temperatures below 10 degrees Fahrenheit probably will require some form of additional heat applied near the cooling core components at the rear of the refrigerator for it to operate properly. But rather than adding yet another droplight, packing insulation behind the refrigerator, or blocking off the lower vent openings, I contend that at temperatures well below freezing, you simply don’ t need refrigeration anyway! Just put the lobster tails and prime rib in a cooler and set it outside! Once the ambient air gets closer to the freezing mark, then you can move the food back inside; the RV absorption refrigerator should operate fine at temperatures near freezing and above. Try to position the coach where maximum sunlight can be directed onto the lower refrigerator vent at the side of the RV
16. EXPLORE PA 2018 when operating the absorption refrigerator during cold weather.
Electrical System
If you will need battery power to keep the furnace running during the cold winter months, ensure that all the batteries in the RV stay fully charged. A fully charged battery has a higher sulfuric acid percentage than a discharged battery. A higher degree of sulfuric acid means less water in the electrolyte. Less water content means it is less likely that the battery will freeze. Keep in mind that a fully charged battery will freeze only if the temperature dips to 55 or 60 degrees below zero Fahrenheit, while a discharged battery may freeze at or near 20 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a huge difference, and vital if you’ re RVing in subzero temperatures!
Verify that your battery charger has the ability to charge not only the house DC system, but also the chassis batteries if you have a motorhome. Not all converter chargers have that feature. Some“ smart chargers,” like the Xantrex Truecharge2 battery charger, may have multiple charging outputs. If not, you’ ll probably have to rely on a stand-alone battery charger to keep the engine battery system up to par. Battery conservation while away from shore power is just as important as propane gas conservation while connected to shore power.
The Exterior
While it’ s important to keep the RV sealed tight to keep the elements out, it’ s also necessary to pay attention to the conditions around the coach, especially if snow is in the forecast.
Always inspect the RV roof after every snowfall and keep the accumulation to a minimum. Avoid letting fallen snow cover the sewer vents, air conditioners, refrigerator roof vent, satellite or TV antennas, etc.
With the slideouts extended during a wintry stay, tape 1-inch foam sheets to the exterior“ roof” section of each slideout. Typically, the roof section of a slideout lacks the same degree of insulation found in the rest of the RV roof, and the added panels will help. If the slideouts are equipped with automatic awnings, the foam panels can add a little support in case of an overnight snowfall.
Regarding the patio awning and individual window and entry door awnings, keep them fully retracted if snow or heavy
rain is expected. When deploying any awning during the winter, keep one end tilted lower than the other in case an unexpected snowfall happens while you are away from the coach. Be sure to remove the white stuff as quickly as possible. Those who have shoveled snow before know that thousands of those feathery flakes can add up to some serious weight, putting stress on the awning canopy and supports. For that reason, I recommend retracting all awnings before going to sleep at night.
Photo Courtesy of GO RVing
If snow builds up around a motorhome, make sure you keep it sufficiently clear to prevent the exhaust pipes for the motorhome or the generator from becoming blocked, and to allow exhaust gases to dissipate, as they should.
Great expanses of wintry vistas await the less intimidated and more adventurous among us. Who knows? A winter RVing vacation or two may get you closer to becoming another satisfied full-time RVer. Enjoy and remember, RVing is more than a hobby; it’ s a lifestyle!
Photo Courtesy of GO RVing