not utilize dual-pane windows , you can always upgrade . This would be a wise choice if you choose to use your RV during the winter often .
Photo Courtesy of GO RVing
Proper air movement is paramount to minimizing the inevitable collection of moisture where thin walls and singlepane glass windows collide with severe temperature differences between the air inside and outside the RV . Instead of using 1-inch Styrofoam panels to cover the window glass , as I suggest for winterizing and storing , consider a transparent or tinted , thin plastic film . It will add a bit to the R factor yet still allow viewing through the windows .
Inspect each exterior window frame and be sure the weep holes are not plugged . Some windows have small plastic covers over the weep holes , while others do not . Remove those plastic covers to verify each weep hole is clear of debris .
Consider replacing a rear-mounted , 14-inch roof vent with a powered air exchanger . Running the powered vent fan periodically while leaving another window cracked open on the opposite end of the coach will create a small , convection-like turbulence inside the RV that will help minimize the accumulation of moisture . Place foam blocks inside the remaining 14-inch roof vents and skylights . Aftermarket vent opening covers that attach to the ceiling are also available and recommended . Also , be sure to unlatch the range hood vent flapper on the exterior so auxiliary air exchanges can occur by operating the range hood exhaust fan . You ’ ll want to keep that air moving . The same goes for the lavatory when showering or bathing . Put that powered vent to good use to exhaust as much moisture as possible .
Hang a heavy blanket just inside the thinner , less insulated entry door and try to position the RV where you ’ ll receive the maximum amount of sunlight during the day . During subfreezing temperatures , however , it is advisable to park the coach where the sunlight hits directly on the lower refrigerator vent . ( More on this later .)
Place throw rugs over non-carpeted flooring sections . Besides keeping your feet warmer , they will help insulate that floor section and cut back on the amount of energy required to keep the interior comfortable . You also should consider using an insulated windshield cover if you have a motorhome . This will minimize the loss of heated interior air through the glass .
Condensation is inevitable when living in an RV during a cold winter , especially when operating the RV furnace . Breathing , cooking , dishwashing , and bathing will contribute to moisture accumulation and retention . All wood products in the RV will act like sponges . Combat this by placing bowls of moisture-trapping desiccant at two or three locations inside the coach . If you have 120-volt-AC power available , consider using portable electric heat to help conserve propane gas . A small dehumidifier is also a wise add-on appliance to carry with you . If you ’ re dry camping , non-electric , propane-fired catalytic heaters approved for RV use are available . ( Be sure to follow the mounting or installation directions , as well as the user instructions and precautions , explicitly .)
Propane System And Appliances
You ’ ll definitely need your appliances — furnace , water heater , cooktop / oven and refrigerator — at some point , so you ’ ll be utilizing the propane gas system normally . Well , as “ normal ” as possible . Allow me to explain .
Just like boiling water , it takes heat to vaporize propane . We store the propane as a liquid in the tank , but we burn propane as a gas at each of the appliances . To get the liquid propane out of the tank , regulated , and delivered to the gas appliances , it must first become hot enough to vaporize . The liquid fuel in the propane container is heated normally by its contact with the external walls of the container , which in turn is heated by the ambient air around it . What this means is that you must have enough wall surface of the container sufficiently “ wetted ” by its contact with the liquid propane in order to vaporize at a rate greater than the need required by the demand of the appliances at any given time . The total rate of vaporization is determined by the temperature of the liquid propane coupled with the amount of surface area wetted by the propane . This is simply a non-issue during the warm summer months . In very cold climates , however , it ’ s entirely possible to have the
RV appliances demand and literally outrun the rate of vaporization , resulting in the appliances simply shutting down all of a sudden . It would seem that you simply “ ran out of gas .”
Take , for instance , a properly filled 100-pound propane container . At 70 degrees Fahrenheit , the propane will vaporize at a rate of 120 cubic feet per hour ( a lot !). This equates to about 300,000 Btu per hour . But at 0 degrees Fahrenheit , the vaporization rate is reduced to only 113,740 Btu per hour for the same amount of propane in the tank . If that 100-pound container was only 10 percent full and the temperature was 0 degrees Fahrenheit , the rate of vaporization is further reduced and will be able to deliver only 25,750 Btu hours , approximately . So , the colder the temperature and the emptier the tank is , fewer Btu hours will be available .
The size and design of the propane container also can contribute to its ability to vaporize the liquid propane . A longer tank with a smaller diameter is actually better at accommodating the rate of vaporization in colder climates than a fat , shorter tank . This is due to the greater number of square inches of tank surface in contact with the propane as compared with a same-sized tank that is shorter but larger in diameter .
So , what does this all mean ? Well , if you ’ re planning to operate the appliances during winter excursions , always begin with a full propane container ( s ) before heading out , and try to refill before the fuel level is reduced to below a third full . Also , try to conserve fuel whenever possible . Use the aforementioned portable electric space heaters for comfort heating . Likewise , run the refrigerator and water heater , if so equipped , on 120-volt-AC when possible .
Take the time to “ do the math ” regarding the four propane-burning appliances in the RV to determine the actual Btu demand . Charts are available that enable you to estimate , based on your demand , how many Btus per hour will be delivered to the appliances at varying temperatures . You may have to become judicious in your use of the appliances in extremely cold weather .
The one appliance that you definitely will need during cold-weather travel is the furnace , and you will need it to be operating most of the time . So , be cognizant of the amount of propane left in the container . Compute your Btu demand and know how much fuel the furnace consumes each day .
15 . EXPLORE PA 2018