buenos aires
Clockwise from below : Malbec ; chinchulines ( chitlins ); morcilla served on bread images : getty
His dad , Enrique , continues to source products from around Argentina . One recent discovery was goat kid sweetbreads .
Diners start lining up around the block at about 11am , hopeful of snapping up a cancellation . Their patience is rewarded with a glass of sparkling wine and a bite-size empanada enjoyed on the street corner . Some criticize the restaurant , saying that these days the parrilla is a tourist trap whose prices are set beyond what local people are willing to pay , but I beg to differ . If you can bag a table , you ’ ll hear a babel of languages — Spanish , English , Portuguese — and there ’ s a regular clientele that ’ s been eating there since it opened 23 years ago . They — and I , well adapted after living in Argentina
WINTER 2023 • 59