Postcards Fall 2023 US | Page 69

cartagena
where the cells that once held prisoners have been repurposed into shops selling artisan goods and crafts , or visit the plazas that once housed the largest slave markets in South America . At one time , around one million people were trafficked through Plaza de la Aduana ( Customs Square ), a short distance from the old city . Learn about Colombia ’ s colonial history here — right down to the statue of Christopher Columbus that stands in its center — to understand how Cartagena ’ s essence came to be a unique blend of Mestizo , Indigenous , African and Caribbean cultures .
FOOD + DRINK
Cartagena ’ s proximity to the Caribbean hauls means that fish is the focal point of local cuisine . Try lobster plucked from the ocean , mixed with other fresh shellfish and
A Colombian musician busks on the street with his guitar
Left : Church of St . Peter Claver and bocagrande in Cartagena
laden in a coconut broth ( known locally as cazuela de mariscos ) at Atahualpa . Or tuck into charcoal-charred octopus with a chimichurri kick ( pulpo a la parrilla ) at Tomillo Cevicheria & Mar . Decadent dishes drawn from the sea aren ’ t the only options on offer here — tuck into Colombian classics like generously stuffed arepas ( stuffed cornmeal cakes ) at Quero Arepa , or snack on tapas-style dishes and desserts at the scenic Caffé Lunático .
Alternatively , for a truly authentic taste of Cartagena ’ s cuisine , brave the labyrinth of farm-fresh fruit stands and hollering vendors inside Bazurto Market . Pick up your daily dose of tropical fruits — opt for Colombian classics like guanábana ( soursop ), guayaba ( guava ) or one of the many local breeds of passion fruit . Or simply sit down for a meal of steaming fish soup , which is very popular in the market .
Best of the rest
The Rosario Islands A chain of islands strung off the coast of Cartagena , Los Rosarios has long served as the playground of Colombia ’ s rich and famous , decked out with private island homes and luxury yachts . Take a tour from the city harbor to hop between the many beaches , cocktail bars and snorkeling spots .
Pirate Island A typical day on Pirate Island , part of the Rosario Islands , involves sipping a cocktail from a hollowed coconut , swaying in a hammock and looking out at the turquoise waters beyond . This tranquil retreat from the city offers travelers secluded access to the best of the Caribbean . Sit back and watch pelicans plunge into the ocean for fish or wade out into the water to snorkel with tropical fish .
Isla Barú Conveniently connected to the mainland by road , Isla Barú is mountainous and forested , an outpost of the Amazon ’ s lush interior . Its main attraction is its beach , lined by shacks selling shellfish and cocktails . Visit at night to swim amid the blue bioluminescence ( phosphorescent plankton that mimic the star-filled sky ) after a day wading in the turquoise waters of Playa Blanca .
FALL 2023 • 69