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the country excels in many dancing arenas . Directly connected to the rhythms of West Africa , adapted and inspired by enslaved Africans carried to Colombia ’ s northern and western coasts , displays of mapalé , cumbia , champeta , palenque and bachata are all on show in this city . Get tickets to a show or simply head to Plaza Trinidad after dark , where dance troupes congregate all night long .
One of those forms , palenque ( a unique blend of rhythms that mimics champeta , Congolese soukous , and reggae , played with traditional percussion instruments ) shares deep roots with Cartagena ’ s most photographed residents , the palenqueras . Travelers line up to pose with the elaborately dressed women , most often spotted sporting flouncing layered skirts and colorful head wraps topped with bowls of pineapples perched precariously on their heads . Over
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the years , they ’ ve become a symbol of Cartagena , but their characteristic style of dress , dance and music comes from a town called San Basilio de Palenque , a few hours south of the city . Considered the first free town in the Americas , it was populated by enslaved Africans who escaped from Cartagena ’ s port , and its residents retain strong ties to West African culture , religion and language . Take the time to chat to one of them — it ’ ll help you better understand Cartagena ’ s unique , blended culture . The palenquera look is also a common feature in the street art that lines the colorful streets of Getsemani , a neighborhood situated a short walk away from the old walled city . The area has gained a reputation for its politically charged street art — wander its painted alleys to take in the socio-political , historical and cultural commentary artists have plastered over the walls . |
HISTORY
For 500 years , Cartagena has changed hands between marauding pirates , European conquistadors and liberating armies . Its thick city walls have survived battles with the British navy and Spanish counter-revolutionary forces — today , they offer travelers a vantage point over the old city and the surrounding sea ; head up at sunset to join the locals who gather there each evening . From here , the sun slips over the 16th-century castle that lies just outside the city walls . Passed between privateers over centuries of conflict , the fortress was built by the Spanish to defend one of their most crucial trading ports . Venture inside to explore its complex of tunnels and underground chambers , frequented by generations of defenders .
The city ’ s darker history is also easy to explore : wander the halls of Las Bóvedas ,
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images : alamy ; getty |
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