ON THE TRAIL
Ningxia
This market is staged on Ningxia Road , close to the historic Dadaocheng district . Two rows of stalls are pressed close together to form a narrow aisle down the main drag . Make a beeline for Liu Yu Zai , the Michelin-decorated stall that ’ s perfected deep-fried taro balls . Try the version with a lava-like salted egg yolk and soft pork floss center and watch the cooks roll the spheres by hand while you wait in line . Ningxia is also famed for its oyster omelet — Yuan Huan Pien takes oysters from Tainan and combines them with an airy batter that ' s then charred on the grill .
Nanjichang
Nanjichang (‘ south airport ’) traces its origins back to the Japanese period ( 1895-1945 ). The military airstrip it once stood by is now defunct , but the market lives on , with a reputation for local vibes and low prices . For fearless foodies , this is the place to sample stinky tofu : spongy bean curd fermented for several months in a funky brine of milk , vegetables and meat . While most cooks deep-fry it ( this tourist-friendly method of preparation tempers the tang ), Smelly Boss serves it steamed and extra odorous . For something more familiar , Nanjichang turns out some of the best gua bao pork buns , aka Taiwanese hamburgers , in town .
Miaokou
Located in Keelung City , around 30 minutes by bus from Taipei , this market is farther afield but worth the detour . Occupying the length of Rensan Road , its signature is the long string of yellow lanterns that hang overhead . This being northern Taiwan ’ s main port , Miaokou is all about seafood . The deepfried soft-shell crab is a big hit , but the main event is ding bian cuo or ‘ pot side paste ’ — rice batter poured over the side of a hot wok then scraped off to create thick noodles , which are submerged in a fish-based soup .
FALL 2023 • 21