ON THE TRAIL
NIGHT MARKETS OF TAIPEI
Taipei ' s night markets are more than somewhere to grab a bite — they ’ re a cultural experience , says Emily Lush
There are two sides to the Taiwanese capital : Taipei by day , and Taipei after dark . Every evening when the clock strikes 5pm , more than 30 food markets unfurl across the city , transforming the streets into open-air buffets where stalls dish out xiaochi — literally ‘ small eats ’ — until the early hours of the morning .
Taipei ’ s first hawkers congregated around temples and universities , offering low-cost meals to students and migrant workers . Over time , these markets have evolved into gathering places where locals come to socialize and shop . From humble beginnings , many xiaochi vendors have risen up through the epicurean ranks : 24 food stands now hold a prestigious Bib Gourmand from Michelin . Try these five markets for a taste of Taiwan .
Raohe
The 18th-century Ciyou Temple provides a spectacular backdrop for this market — especially after dark . Centrally located in Songshan , Raohe is easy to navigate thanks to its one-streetonly layout . Hujiao bing ( black pepper buns ) are a favorite , with Fuzhou Shizu being the star stall . Baked in a tandoor-style oven , the pillowy dough filled with marinated pork is perfectly crisp every time . Locals also flock to Raohe for a bowl of pork bone soup , consisting of ribs submerged in an herbal broth . Snag a plastic seat at Chen Tung Pork Ribs , which has been operating for 30 years .
Shilin
If you only have one evening in Taipei , spend it here : Shilin is the mother of all night markets , with 500-plus vendors and the full suite of xiaochi . The legendary chain Hot-Star Large Fried Chicken was born at Shilin , thus a pilgrimage to the flagship branch for a giant crumbed cutlet is a must . An ice cream burrito filled with cilantro and peanut brittle , hand-shaved on demand from a giant slab , is another . Beyond the sprawling stalls , Shilin has an air-conditioned food court ( perfect for summer ), video arcades and karaoke bars to fully immerse you in Taipei ’ s nightlife . illustrations : jessica kendrew
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