ON THE TRAIL Ehime
Ehime ' s first temple is Kongofukuji , located along Cape Ashizuri at Shikoku ' s southernmost point . Kukai himself founded a medicinal onsen — a natural hot spring — here . It ' s an excellent place to bathe sore muscles while gazing upon crashing waves below . Another iconic local hot spring is Dogo Onsen , said to have inspired the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki ' s animated film Spirited Away .
Kagawa
Kagawa is known to pilgrims as the place of Nirvana , and one of its temples , Zentsuji , was Kukai ' s birthplace . The temple offers overnight stays , which is an excellent chance to experience an early morning Buddhist ceremony . Shikoku literally means ‘ four provinces ’, and while its temples may be explored in any order , pilgrimage literature indicates that this should be the final stop on your spiritual journey . This route gradually deepens your spiritual connection to the islands , and your understanding of the origins and practices of esoteric Buddhism . illustrations : Lis watkins
The Seto Inland Sea
You can head to the islands of the Seto Inland Sea once you ’ re prepared to re-enter the secular world . These art-centric islands dot the sea between Shikoku and Japan ’ s main island of Honshu . Besides hosting year-round art installations , the islands also feature in the Setouchi Triennale , which finishes its 2022 run this autumn . Explore atmospheric cafés and art galleries in Kitahama Alley , located in Takamatsu and enjoy udon noodles from the nearby city of Sanuki .
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