ON THE TRAIL
FOLLOW PILGRIMS & PAGODAS IN SHIKOKU , JAPAN
Buddhist history and spectacular temples shape a trip through Shikoku , finds Kimberly Hughes
Shikoku may be the smallest of Japan ' s four major islands , but it ’ s primed for exploration . These begin with the Shikoku Henro , an 88-temple pilgrimage route dotting its circular coastline . Stretching along 870 miles , the route traces the sacred sites once visited by renowned monk Kukai , who founded Shingon ( esoteric ) Buddhism in Japan during the early 800s .
While some present-day pilgrims follow the entire route on foot , donning monklike attire and carrying staffs , others take a more relaxed approach .
Travelers of any religion are welcome to join the trail , and while overseas visitors should learn some basic Japanese phrases to communicate with local residents , a spirit of openness and respect is by far the most important language .
Tokushima The first 23 temples
along the route are located in this northeasterly prefecture . While not on the pilgrimage route itself , Tokushima is also home to Jouman-ji , Shikoku ' s oldest Zen monastery , offering sessions in traditional zazen meditation . Consider a stay at B & B On y Va , a renovated 150-year-old former sake brewery . Here , you can enjoy the small farm and forested sauna onsite before stopping by the white sands of Ohama Beach , where sea turtles come ashore to nest in the summer .
Kochi
Continuing southward , pilgrims are invited to further strengthen their faith , in a place historically sought out for ascetic training . Kochi is famous for the striking Niyodo blue ( named by locals ) of the cerulean-hued river and its waterfall basin . These waters are also used , along with local mulberry tree fibers , to craft ultra-thin Tosa washi paper , which feature in traditional shoji screen doors . As the local temples are considerably spread out , visitors are encouraged to travel between them via bicycle .
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