DOURO | THE RIVER OF GOLD
The Douro winemakers have also cottoned onto the fact that there ’ s more to life than exporting port . Like their brethren in Alentejo , they have adapted modern viticulture techniques to their traditional grape varieties and processes to produce some truly impressive wines throughout the price spectrum . It ’ s also fun to seek out one of the surviving independent quintas , and taste a variety of their table wines and ports . It ’ s what the French do , and they know a thing or two about wine . If you ’ re cruising though , reserve some cargo space , and if you ’ re on wheels , take a van . It ’ s worth it ; seriously ! Then you can stock up on vinho verde , too .
You can stay on the Douro in anything from 5 star sumptuousness ( Quinta da Romaneira , Aquapura Douro Valley , the Yeatman ) to pensoĕs and hostels . There are rural and urban B & Bs ( Turismo em Espaço Rural , Turismo de Habitaçāo ), Pousadas , and , of course the hotel ships .
If you wish to stray further afield , there ’ s golf at Porto GC , Estela GC , Amarante and Ponte de Lima , and surfing at Matosinhos , Praia Azul and Vila do Conde . You can ride in the Parque Nacional de Peneda Gerĕs , and there are equestrian centres at Pico de Regalados and Ponte de Lima .
The latter is on the Caminho do Santiago , the alternative Portuguese route to Compostela from Sé Catedral in Porto through Minho and Galicia . It ’ s only 227 kilometres long , compared to the 800 kilometres of the French route , but much hillier . We ’ re reliably informed , though , that the food and accommodation is better !
So , there you have it : one river , much history , and many lifestyles . In a future issue , we ’ ll report on an actual cruise . Meanwhile , visit if you can , and enjoy another aspect of Portugal ’ s bounty .
16 | Summer 2012 | www . portugal-life . net |