THE RIVER OF GOLD | Douro
First, the statistics: it’ s the third longest river in Iberia, after the Tagus and the Ebro, measuring 897 kilometres, 210 of which are in Portugal. It rises in the Urbión mountains of Soria province at 2000 metres, and flows into the Atlantic between Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia. There are 44 bridges, 16 in Portugal, three on the border and 26 in Spain, and five dams in the Portuguese sector, which is the only fully navigable stretch. That’ s a good thing, because it’ s the Portuguese Douro that is the most bewitching, memorable and beautiful.
When it comes to exploring the Douro, one company springs to mind: Douro Azul. Think of it as the catalyst, because not a lot floats on the river that they’ re not involved in. They bow to no-one in enterprise, and they’ re constantly striving for excellence, a characteristic of tourism in the North. The inspiration behind the company is Mario Ferreira, who learnt his trade in the hotels of London, and the cruise ships of the world.
Founded in 1993 as Ferreira Rayford Turismo Lda., the company began with one ship, the Vista Douro. It now has 12, five of which are hotel ships, and two more of these are coming into service in each of 2013 and 2015. The Douro Spirit( 2011) is the current flagship, and she is chartered to Uniworld River Cruises. She will be replaced by the Queen Isabel, a more classic but still luxurious Old World style vessel in 2013. It’ s newest ship will be the Royal Barge, which DouroAzul acquired after the Queen’ s Diamond Jubilee celebrations. The‘ Spirit of Chartwell’ will be in operation from the end of 2013. Other operators include Saga( Douro Princess), Manorhouses. com( Douro Cruiser), Page & Moy and Noble Caledonia. Returning to the market in 2013 are Viking River Cruises, with their new ship, the Vilking Douro, and AmaWaterways with the AmaVida. The latter also includes starting at Lisbon or Madrid for a three day visit before your seven day cruise. These ships are being built in the Navalria yard in Aveiro, so will be sister ships to Douro Spirit.
You may also cruise the Douro by the hour and by the day. Operators include Douro Azul themselves, Douro Acima, and Rota do Douro. They operate everything from modern cruise boats to traditional rabelos, the boats originally used to transport the wine barrels to the port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia, though the latter now have engines, too.
So, what’ s to do? Apart from the spectacular scenery upriver, the city of Porto itself( more precisely its mediaeval and historic centre) has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 1996, five years before the same status was granted to the Douro Wine Region. It’ s no part of this commentator’ s brief to tell you what to do or see, but don’ t miss a cruise under the six bridges, and take in a visit to the wine lodges in Vila Nova de Guia and a tasting.
Upriver, of course, there are vineyards to be visited, ancient sites, monuments and palaces to be admired, the whole património unique to the area. The towns of Régua, Lamego and Vila Nova de Foz Côa are fascinating, and if you get the chance, drive from Sabrosa to Pinhão at harvest time, a unique and moving experience.
You can take wine tours, cheese tours, chocolate tours, a cornucopia of gastronomy. In May / June, there is the unique opportunity to celebrate the cherry festival( douro cerejas), and there are food and local festivals throughout the year.
The Douro is the third longest river in Iberia, measuring 897 kilometres. There are 44 bridges, 16 in Portugal, three on the border and 26 in Spain.
| www. portugal-life. net | Summer 2012 | 15