travel
The Iron Gate
Macedonia ’ s Perfect Summer Getaway
After my two years in Negotino , I could be Peace Corps Macedonia ’ s biggest advocate for Tikveshijata – south-central Macedonia ’ s wine region known for its miles of grapevines , scorchingly intense rakija and the friendliest people in the country .
Kavadarci , Negotino , Gradsko and Demir Kapija make up the Tikvesh region , and much more binds them together besides the total lack of the letters Ќ and Ѓ from their dialect ( fun fact : every Ќ is pronounced Ч , and each Ѓ comes out as Џ ). The Tikvesh is also known for its unique holidays celebrating wine and grapes , searing summer temperatures and countless wineries scattered around the area . There are also endless activities to do out-of-doors – especially in Demir Kapija .
Demir Kapi means “ iron gate ” in Turkish , a name inspired from the imposing rock gorge that towers over the south end of town . I recently had the good fortune of spending an unforgettable weekend at Hotel Weaver , and I would highly recommend making a point to spend time in the natural areas around Demir Kapija before you complete your Peace Corps service .
By Austin Fast , MAK 15
Day hike through the Gorge
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Within five minutes of setting off , this easily became my favorite hike from all of Macedonia . To begin , catch a cab from “ downtown ” Demir Kapija ( for a town of 3,000 people there ’ s a surprising amount of activity around the central area ) to the tunnel on the other side of the river that heads toward Gevgelija and that one southern neighbor country .
Get out at the parking area between the two tunnels , where you will find some crude metal rungs leading to the narrow side gorge below . Climb down the makeshift ladder , or take the ramp on the other side of the bridge and pass back underneath the road . Limestone walls tower above , shading you from the summer heat , while tough trees watered by a mountain stream cling to the craggy rocks . Boards are laid across the stream at some points to help you out , but plan on wading repeatedly through the clear water .
When the gorge opens up , you ’ ll stumble upon rows of pepper plants , cornstalks and other crops planted by the industrious inhabitants of Chelevec . Eventually you ’ ll find a tractor path dotted by grazing horses leading along the river to this tiny Turkish settlement
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Sunbathing at Plochka
The river Doshnica flows from the ski slopes of Kozhuf Mountain and empties into the Vardar at Demir Kapija . Reportedly no human settlements lie between its source and mouth so it ’ s one of the cleanest rivers in the region . Cross the one-lane bridge at the end of Demir Kapija near the open market and immediately hang a sharp right to follow the river back through the trees about 20 minutes . There are clear paths back to Plochka – the locals ’ summer swimming hole . Plochka is aptly named , as the smooth sheets of rock lining the fast-moving water do resemble enormous bathroom tiles .
You might have to watch out for a fisherman ’ s hook , or beware a naked child frolicking around , but Plochka is the perfect place to beat the heat of 100-degree summer days in Tikveshijata .
Cost : FREE ! 24 – Pauza Magazine
Late lunch at Kuchkin
Kuchkin owner Ljupcho almost seems to consider his salad making an art . There ’ s no rushing him as he delicately piles greens , fiery hot peppers , fresh heirloom tomatoes , generous blocks of cheese , and fried squash into a mountainous salad that ’ s by far the best in all Macedonia . The meat off the grill is fresh , the French fries are crispy , and the wood-fired bread is perfect . I cannot praise Kuchkin ’ s food and atmosphere enough . Be prepared though – Kuchkin has not invested in making the restaurant surroundings suit the quality of the food , so you might forego a trip to the restroom .
Find Kuchkin across from the basketball court on the side street that intersects the main road in front of the train station .
Cost : 200 denars for a five-person salad and 50 denars per half-liter Skopsko / Dab beer