our taste: ZENO’S ON THE SQUARE / MAMMA MONICA ITALIAN RESTAURANT
Passion for Food, Meets Love of
Western Culture
By MARSHA BROWN
I
t was the spring of 2017 and
Monica Russo (along with partner
Mike Waltrip) had recently opened
a new restaurant that everyone in
Parker County was buzzing about,
Mamma Monica Italian Restaurant.
The little Italian bistro on a country
backroad was an instant hit.
After all the excitement and hard
work she’d put into the new restau-
rant, Monica was ready for a trip
home to Italy.
While there, she dined at a
restaurant in Tuscany, Ir Tegame
Spaghetteria, where the pasta is made
by the chef in an open kitchen and
the customers watch him work his
magic.
Monica watched him as he creat-
ed hand-made pasta dishes that were
as beautiful as they were scrump-
tious. She was stunned.
“I fell in love with his ability and
his class,” Monica said. “He’s fabu-
lous!”
She talked with him, a bit. They
found that they were kindred spirits,
sharing a passion for great food.
The chef was Max Zubboli. She
found that Max had an impressive
resume. He’d trained at one of Italy’s
top culinary schools, then worked
alongside some of Italy’s great-
est chefs, preparing food for events
attended by the royal and famous of
Europe including Queen Elizabeth
II of England and George Clooney.
Tiffany & Company and Versace
were among their regular catering
customers.
“Growing up in Italy, everything
revolved around food,” he said. “We
don’t just eat to live. Food is our life.
We cook with love.”
Monica told Max about her own
restaurant in Texas and they talked
about her plans for a new eatery. She
asked if he would consider coming
to Texas and opening a new restau-
rant with her. The idea intrigued
122
Max Zubboli
him. “I’ve wanted to live in America
since I was a little child,” Max said.
But, while changing jobs is stressful,
changing jobs and changing coun-
tries is a big step.
Monica knew that from her
own experience. She invited Max
to first visit her in Texas. In the fall
Max, along with his beautiful wife
Antonella, (they met in culinary
school; she is also a chef) came to
visit Monica in Texas.
“We love Texas,” Max said.
“What I love most about it is the
people. They are very welcoming to
us.”
Max and Antonella are now offi-
cially Texans.
Max is the executive chef of
Monica’s newest restaurant, Zeno’s
on the Square, which opened June
6, 2018. The restaurant is named for
her younger brother, who manages
Zeno’s while Antonella, works with
Monica at Mamma Monica Italian
Restaurant creating all the fresh
homemade pasta and delicious
made-from-scratch desserts.
Both restaurants are wildly
successful. Their secret?
“We are simple, easy, close to
tradition, and we love to welcome
our customers,” Monica said. “People
get this authentic feeling, they feel
happy ... and there’s the food, of
course.” Of course!
Max is happy in his new life.
Although he no longer cooks for
European royalty (not that we know
of), he creates dishes for customers
who are royally appreciative, and
there’s the occasional celebrity like
Yellowstone creator Taylor Sheridan,
actor Cole Hauser, cutting horse
royalty like Lindy Birch and Shelly
Mowery.
Monica takes great pride in both
restaurants.
“Every time I make somebody
happy ... every time I’m in the dining
room and I see the happy faces of my
customers, when they say ‘thank you
Mamma,’ that makes me proud.”
What does the future hold for
Monica and her expanding food
empire?
With Mamma Monica’s now as
the heart of the project, the main
kitchen will be enlarged to allow for
increased food production. A new
line of take-home products called
‘Mamma Monica’s Food’ will be sold
in each location, with a drive-thru at
Mamma Monica’s and a concession
stand at cutting horse shows.
“Zeno’s will be the place to go,”
Monica said, “with high standards
in quality of food and service ... the
‘fine dining’ place.
“Both the restaurants now are
offering a new service under the
name ‘Authentic Italian Catering,’
a company that now caters parties,
weddings and special events, offering
both international and Italian food,
with a large selection of menu items,”
Monica said.
Just imagine, a Zeno’s wedding
reception!