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EXTRAS
Moments of Gourmandise
QUÉBEC CITY & CHARLEVOIX
Words by Lauren Kramer Photos courtesy of Tourisme Charlevoix
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Glimpse a region through its food and you begin to understand its history , culture and the warmth , and talent of its artisanal producers . We took to Québec to follow culinary pathways , from the ancient cobblestone streets of Québec City to the spectacular valleys and mountains of the Charlevoix , an hour north .
Along the way we met producers of artisanal cheese , cider , nougat and chocolate , mead , wine , and bread . We traced the contours of the mighty St . Lawrence River on picturesque roads past stone houses that date back centuries , churches steeped in history and small towns whose scenery has arrested and inspired Canada ’ s most prominent artists . And we experienced the deep warmth , generosity of spirit and passion for their land and food that defines the Québécois and distinguishes this region as utterly extraordinary .
Arriving in Québec City we ditched our car in favour of an e-bike , cruising easily up the steep hills of the old city behind our guide . History surrounds you in this beautiful port city , where ancient fortifications , meticulously restored European architecture and statues gesture to the past . It ’ s a history filled with bloodshed , violence and destruction as French , British and Americans tussled for the right to rule , but it ’ s also one of fierce pride in French traditions and a determination to preserve and protect them . We bike past the citadel , past cannons and alongside stone walls built for defense , all stark reminders that life here was not always as peaceful as it is today .
We join a culinary food tour for insight into the locals ’ favourite eateries and stop in at Restaurant La Bûche , an urban sugar shack in the Old City . Here toboggans are suspended from rustic , wood beam ceilings , and maple syrup finds its way into every
At Lavande Azulée , her organic lavender farm in the Charlevoix , Louise Vidricaire creates decadent , lavender-infused brownies , soothing teas and scone mixes .
single dish . There ’ s syrup in the pea soup , in the pâté chinois , a traditional Québécois beef dish , and , of course , in the dessert . We leave clasping hand-rolled maple syrup on a stick , a rich , sticky treat that ’ s distinctly Québécois and wonderfully refreshing on the tongue .
In the late afternoon we leave the culinary route briefly for Nordique Spa Stoneham in Stoneham-et-Tewkesbury , a half hour ’ s drive north of the city . The spa sits on a steep embankment overlooking the swift river currents and forested hills of the