October 2019 Edition Apparel October 2019 issue | Page 56

FEATURE “MUCH OF WHAT WE SEE IN THE MARKET TODAY IS FAKE ORGANIC COTTON, AND IT IS PRACTICALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO HAVE CLARITY ON THE ENTIRE CHAIN OF PRODUCTION.” 54 I APPAREL I as finished garments are priced higher than their inorganic counterparts. Mansi Gupta, Co-founder and CEO, Tjori, says, “The quality of an efficiently grown crop with organic land certification, extra care after natural fertilisation, and curation, all ask for extra toil and trouble and hence the higher price bracket. Those from the apparel industry are coming up with solutions to the problems of environmental damage and if this comes with a slightly higher price, I believe that it is justified.” Poonam Naik, Founder, Peekaboo, says, “Although organic and natural clothing is expensive than conventional clothing, the price gap will start to shrink as the market size of natural clothing grows and the economies of scale improve. The benefits far outweigh the high price. Organic fabric contains a minimum of 70 per cent organic fibres, and all dyes and treatments have to meet stringent criteria such as being free of formaldehyde and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) throughout the entire organic textiles supply chain. This means that the end-product is soft, breathable, and free of hazardous chemicals.” October 2019 Arpit Srivastava, who heads Lenzing Group’s Marketing and Branding in South Asia, adds, “While Tencel fibres do come with a higher price range as compared to general fibres, they offer premium features such as durability, colour- retention, and smooth feel. Our EcoVero fabric is as competitive as regular viscose, making it a perfect bid for the Indian market.” SURPASSING HURDLES The biggest challenge with organic fabrics is with regards to its market share, which is majorly concentrated in metropolitan cities. Elodie Le Derf, Co-founder and Head Designer, Born, a luxury baby and kids’ wear label, says, “The challenges in organic-wear are multiple, especially for small brands and start-ups. It starts with suppliers because for them, to be profitable and make the best use of their machines requires a certain minimum number of quantities, which small brands cannot always match up to. Another issue is that much of what we see in the market today is fake organic cotton, and it is practically