about everything from the industry at large to plating for each dish . While this rebellious nature has made him a controversial figure at times , it always assures a standard of excellence in his restaurants that is unquestionable .
Bagshaw ’ s influence on the city ’ s dining scene began in earnest when he opened Deseo Bistro in 2011 . The restaurant ’ s first iteration , in a wee , window-lined space inside the Royal Albert Arms , was small but powerful enough to get tongues wagging over simple ingredients like fingerling potatoes and Brussels sprouts , reimagined with forceful flavours . When a water main break forced the space ’ s closure , Deseo was back within the year , ensconced in its current home at South Osborne .
The idea of opening a second restaurant was just beginning to percolate when a
inthekitchen
“ you can ’ t just follow your heart .” Staying familiar with customer preferences and keeping a shrewd eye on unfilled niches in the market are essential to keeping the kitchen grounded , balancing a passion for creating with day to day logistics .
It is this balance that ignites Bagshaw ’ s fire for the chef life : the marriage of artistry and blue collar work ethic . While completing a post graduate degree in Australia , he was seduced by the rewarding practicality of his job in a restaurant kitchen . The long hours , budget constraints , and pressure to constantly perform pushed him to master the work fast . “ There ’ s no time , you have to learn as you go , and you have to nail it every time .”
Now , years later , Enoteca and Deseo make regular appearances on “ Best in Canada ” lists , impressing diners with flavour born
“ This space is an extension of me .”
realtor called to offer a space in River Heights . Scott jumped in with both feet , setting up shop ( as with all of his restaurants ) with no investors , doing much of the work himself . The restaurant became a culmination of his identity as a chef , every detail recreating his dream dining experience . “ This space is an extension of me ,” Bagshaw says . There is no high priced décor or custom servingware . “ I don ’ t need to spend money on it if is doesn ’ t affect the food ,” he asserts , tapping the Ikea plate in front of him .
Instead , taste is law . The menu offers diners lists of clues which come to life as an array of share-able plates that mix imaginative flavour with timeless technique . Chef Bagshaw harbours a deep love of classic French preparations , proven techniques for building layers of complex flavour into a dish . Every item at Enoteca makes use of at least one such technique , and despite hip ingredients like black garlic or quail eggs , the first bite clinches the deal on taste .
While Bagshaw likes to cook whatever inspires him at the moment , he adds , out of an unwavering quest for a memorable food experience . In addition to these two restaurants , Bagshaw ’ s next venture is set to open by the time this issue is delivered . Chinese influenced Maque will bring his penchant for French techniques together with the Eastern ingredients and flavour profiles that inspire him .
Splitting his time between shaping menu direction at Deseo and cooking at Enoteca , Bagshaw ’ s hands-on approach allows him to mentor Winnipeg ’ s next generation of bright young chefs . Bagshaw ’ s hope for the city ’ s restaurant scene is that the chef-driven trend gains momentum , with greater numbers of visionary young chefs – what he calls “ little guys making waves ” – opening their own spaces . It is clear as he banters with his sous chefs at Enoteca that in his restaurants , he runs a tight but jovial ship .
Chef Bagshaw is adamant that there is no secret to success . “ You ’ ve got to work ,” he says . “ Everyone is responsible for their own happiness .” It ’ s a bold , fierce philosophy ; but then again , it ’ s a philosophy that has turned out some of the best food in the city .
14 ciao ! / oct / nov / two thousand fifteen