Oct/Nov 2015 Oct/Nov 2015 | Page 14

inthekitchen

inthekitchen

pushing palates

For chef Scott Bagshaw , the recipe for beautiful food begins with a vision and thousands of hours of hard work .
by Joelle Kidd
Seated in front of the counter that breaks the space between Enoteca ’ s dining room and open kitchen , Scott Bagshaw has a camera pointed at his face , and is being urged to smile .
“ I ’ ve been photoshopped before ,” he tells us , declaring this is the worst part of his job .
Bagshaw is no stranger to photographers and accolades , but the mercurial chef continues to voice his discomfort with the spotlight while still recognizing its benefit , even necessity , in the restaurant business . Bagshaw belongs to the chef-driven nouvelle vague of dining out , a shift personified in characters like Anthony Bourdain and David Chang , who revolutionized the dining landscape with uncensored , no-holds-barred commentary on the industry and revelatory cooking which refused to pander to any but the chef ’ s own palate . As the old vanguard comes down , the focus on chefs ’ distinct voices is a doubleedged sword , creating a market for celebrity .
Today ’ s chefs are no longer sequestered in hot , grimy kitchens , cooking to survive . They have an audience , whether it ’ s the patron trying to banter into the open kitchen or media looking for an erudite quote . The shining beacon of the ideal chef is equal parts showman , ambassador , and environmentalist , boasts stellar cooking chops , and to top it all off , performs consistently with charisma and poise .
In this minefield of new expectations , Bagshaw is a study in opposites . He hates the fame game , but he is so in love with what he is doing that he has learned to step into the spotlight with gratitude . He is brash , candid , opinionated , and unwavering in his convictions
12 ciao ! / oct / nov / two thousand fifteen