F&B take pride in their preparation of local fish. There were
three that we tried. First, Salt Crush Redfish with star anise, coconut,
citrus zest and Agrumato lemon oil. The earthy filet was enriched by
the choice of olive oil. Greenwood picks his olive oils (he uses sev-
eral) to suit the ingredients they garnish. In this case, the Agrumato
lemon oil brings citrus zestiness infused with ripe olive oil from Abru-
zzo.
Next was a Yellowedge Grouper marinated in a tomato emul-
sion with basil and pickled shallots. Filets of the grouper were served
skin on and I was one diner very willing to eat them like that. Tomato
and basil are, of course, a classic pairing and so was it here, especially
with the sharpness contributed by the shallots.
Finally, Roasted Red Snapper with heirloom tomato broth, fla-
vored with the subtle palate of tarragon and Castelvetrano olives,
and dyed with saffron, combined the chewy dense fibres of red
snapper with the hay and grass flavors of the herbs.
F&B excels at desserts like chocolate soufflé, profiteroles, key
lime pie, panna cotta, and chocolate chip cookies. My stomach
made me feel pre-Mr. Creosote by this time so I confined my tastes
to a few mouthfuls. I decided the cool, sweet, and creamy panna
cotta won the dessert prize.
All this would understate the dining experience at F&B if I did
not mention the wine list. Although sparse for restaurants with food
in this league at just 40 selections they are well chosen with 2016
Patz & Hall, Sonoma Coast Chardonnay a strong choice and 2013 Ch.
Romer, Sauternes available to compliment dessert. Sommelier Chris-
tian Gutierrez, CS is looking for suitable Texas wines to add.
Throughout my meal the waitstaff struck that delicate balance
between friendliness and professionalism with precision and their
enthusiasm came through palpably.
To summarize the food at F&B would be to describe it as the
sum of several influences on the chef through his life. The abundant
seafood of South Padre Island, the ingredients-first mantra of Cali-
fornia, and the classical training that produces the miracle of human
ingenuity that is beurre blanc sauce all figure. His time at Command-
er’s Palace in New Orleans he says taught him about seasoning and
chili. The results at F&B are impressive.
42 ModernLifestyles.tv