F&B SPI (Food and Beverage South Padre Island) could be dropped
into any big Texas city and its food and service would stand out. That is a
measure of the quality of this restaurant, open on South Padre Island just
18 months. Its new American food, efficient and thoughtful waitstaff, and
casual vibe in which ‘island wear’ shares tables with formal wear make it sui
generis among South Padre eating establishments. I recently checked it
out at a media event.
The owners are Walter Greenwood and Brandi Hackett. He got the
cooking bug at college and worked in kitchens in Florida, New Orleans at
Commander’s Palace, Los Angeles, and Las Vegas at Wolfgang Puck. She
met him at Bartolotta Ristorante Di Mare (at the Wynn hotel in Las Vegas)
and the two began a relationship. Greenwood had grown up with several
years on South Padre and after they made several tours back together they
decided to open their own place on the island. Their 50% backers are two
veterans of the island restaurant industry, brothers Scott Friedman (Pirates
Landing, Pier 19) and Bob Friedman (Sea Ranch).
As you slip into F&B, situating yourself in the well-stocked bar or one
of the comfortable restaurant tables, the brick and whitewashed walls and
quirky adds like the wall of pot plant tubs make for a casual yet stylish at-
mosphere.
The menu changes monthly so take the dishes mentioned below
as representative. It always aims to offer presentations of the island’s fish
alongside familiar ‘turf’ dishes such as chicken, pork chop, and steak.
At our dinner things hit the ground running with an appetizer of red
snapper crudo in an aji key lime marinade with local citrus, radish and ci-
lantro. The bright, spritely marinade meshed perfectly with the gelatinous
gulf coast fish. The spicy radish and bitter cilantro added facets to the flavor
profile. Light, but memorable.
On the fish side of things we had spiny lobster tail on a plate of
rich,sweet, beurre blanc sauce. Having dived with spiny lobsters I expected
an emaciated version of its cold climate cousin. I could not have been
more wrong. The sinewy tail meat, dexterously poached in butter, was suc-
culent, al dente to the touch, and still redolent with the briny flavors of the
sea. However, the truffle strands sprinkled on top I could have exchanged
for something with more texture or oomph, like shards of fried onion or
nori, so nebulous were the flavors.
It took me only a couple of mouthfuls to realize that I was tasting one
of the most impressive lobster dishes I had had in many months. This was
the standout dish of the night.
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