TRAIL RUNNING |
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Descending to Lake Ausangatecocha |
Mount Ausangate provided a wonderful backdrop for an ultra ! |
One of the high-lying lakes Scott ran past on Campa Pass |
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Skyrocketing Heart Rate
It was somewhere on this latter stretch that I had an incredibly lucky ‘ escape ,’ after nearly being attacked by a pack of four dogs . The dogs were with a shepherdess who was standing higher on the side of a hill while I was running towards the dogs along the valley floor . When the dogs saw me , they came bounding down the hill , barking like crazy . The dogs were the size of Alsatians , and I became fearful , as I had heard that rabies was not an uncommon occurrence in South America . They dogs were obviously unfamiliar with runners , so I shouted as loud as I could to ward them off , because I could find no stones nearby to throw to threaten or divert them .
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The dogs proceeded to encircle me , still barking . Slowly but surely , they closed the circle . My heart was racing , and I shouted loudly . Fortunately , the shepherdess had also come running down the hill , screaming at the dogs to let me be . Just then , one of Devy ’ s organising team came into view - he was on his way to the intermediate campsite – and between the pair of them they managed to distract the dogs , much to my relief . It was a narrow escape , and I was quite shaken .
My two saviours smiled and babbled away in their local language . I was just thankful that I had not been ripped apart . After a breather , I continued on to the campsite and food station at Jampa , a short distance away , where the sandwiches , snacks and drink were most welcome and my heart rate slowly returned to normal . I stayed for only a few minutes , though , as I had yet another pass to climb and about another 20km to go . I was still able to run ( or shuffle ) the sections that weren ’ t too steep . As the sun disappeared behind the clouds , it grew cold , so I knew that I couldn ’ t delay . Keeping in motion keeps one ’ s heartrate up .
I continued ascending , over several false summits , running the comparatively flatter parts where I could , up to the Campa Pass at 5000m , where I was surrounded by views of glaciers , ice-covered peaks and several lakes . That was the highest point of the circuit . I was alone and savoured the moment , blessed to be able to be there and savour those stunning views . Although several brief flat sections followed , it was predominantly downhill from there , and the trail was easily runnable . That eventually led me to the village of Pacchanta , the location of my campsite and the end of my two-stages-in-one run .
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Last Days on the Trail
I had thoroughly enjoyed the run , despite my close shave earlier that morning with the dogs . The camp team spoke only a few words of English , but they made me very welcome . They plied me with sufficient food and drink to quench my hunger and thirst , and I slept exceptionally soundly that night . I was exhausted after running about 45km . The following morning , I waited for the other runners , and walked up the trail to meet them with some liquid refreshments and snacks , always wary of any dogs belonging to shepherds in the area . I realised that the dogs that had attacked me the previous day did not usually have contact with humans – especially not with runners . I had suddenly headed into their territory , and they had been on high alert .
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On the following day , as part of the post-run celebrations , we enjoyed a few beers while bathing in the warm waters of the local hot springs . Soon , the aches and pains disappeared , and then we had a traditional pachamanca dinner feast , prepared in the Quechua method of cooking meat , vegetables and sweet potatoes with heated stones in the ground . To say that it was scrumptious would be an understatement ! Unbelievably , later that afternoon , we participated in a game of football with our local support crew . However , most of the expatriates were very much older , and unaccustomed to living permanently at that altitude , and we had all eaten and drunk too much , so , unsurprisingly , we were soundly beaten !
Soothing dip in thermal springs ( and local beer ) to ease sore muscles
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Scott poses for a mid-ultra pic on his double-stage day |
Images : Diego Delso / Wikimedia , Splasho / Wikimedia & courtesy Scott McIvor |