Images : Edu Bucher / Wikimedia , Martin St Amant / Wikimedia , RAF YYC / Wikimedia & courtesy Scott McIvor |
Up for Another Run
The next stage of the trip followed , with the one-week running extension to the group ’ s itinerary . Our group comprised about a dozen runners , several other trekkers and our support crew , and the aim was to run around Mount Ausangate , a mountain in the Vilcanota mountain range at an elevation of nearly 6400m , situated approximately 100km south-east of Cusco . The region is inhabited by llama- and alpaca-herding communities and constitutes one of the few remaining pastoralist societies on the continent . These herders use high mountain trails to trade with agricultural communities at lower elevations .
Our bus journey took us to the village of Pisac , which has a colourful market where extensive selections of colourful weavings , ceramics , sweaters and other handicrafts are sold at bargain prices . We enjoyed a splendid dinner that evening in one of the haciendas . ( a large estate or plantation with a dwelling house / restaurant ), and after dinner , Devy threw out a challenge for anyone wanting to run an ultramarathon , combining two of the upcoming days into one run . The distances were about 16 miles and 11 miles , respectively for a total of 27 miles , or around 44km . Most of us had imbibed a few too many pisco sours ( a type of brandy cocktail , named after pisco , its base liquor , while the cocktail term “ sour ” refers to citrus juice and sweetener components ), so a few of us decided to accept the challenge . As it transpired , I was the only one who ended up completing the two stages in one day !
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Colourful woven items for sale at the Pisac market
Several of our group had prearranged to walk the entire route , while others had planned to run it . The trail crossed over four high passes , of which two were over 5000m . The scenery is varied and includes icy peaks , tumbling glaciers , turquoise lakes , rolling brown , arid grasslands known as puna , and green , marshy valleys . Along the way , we saw herds of alpacas , and passed tiny hamlets that had remained virtually unchanged over the centuries . Ausangate is famous for being the site of the traditional festival of
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Q ’ oyoriti , when thousands of locals converge on the mountain ’ s icy slopes to celebrate the “ star of the snow ” with a night trek to the top of the glacier .
We were picked up at our hotel for a three-hour drive to the trailhead of the circuit . Along the way , we stopped to enjoy authentic Sunday markets in several Andean towns , before reaching the village of Tinqui at just below 3800m elevation . There , we met our Quechua muleteers , along with their pack animals . Our run on that first day was mostly uphill and
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The first temporary camp set up for the runners as they went around Ausangate
Large white chalk arrows marked the way
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We ran over rolling hills , passing by stone walls and a few thatched houses . The trail continued up towards the north face of Mount Ausangate , which is considered by these highlanders as the sacred Apu ( mountain spirit ). We ran on to Huahuayocrumi before descending into Upis at a height of 4400m , camping by some thermal pools . That night at our campsite , a local shaman sang and chanted prayers to the mountain spirits .
Double Run Day
The next day ’ s run started early in the Jampamayo Valley . It was cold , but the sun soon came out , warming us up . As I was running a longer distance than anyone else , I ran on my own for most of the way . My legs felt strong , in spite of completing the marathon only a few days before , as I had become well accustomed to the altitude , and I experienced no adverse problems with my breathing .
Devy had sent two different support crews ahead : One to set up a campsite at the 25km mark , which would just be a food stop for me , and the second group to set up the subsequent campsite and my end point , 20km further along . The route had been periodically marked with huge chalk arrows at various intersections , to offer route directions , and those marks couldn ’ t be missed .
I crossed the green Upismayo Valley and climbed the Arapa Pass to 4800m before descending to a lake , where there was an aid / food station . From there , I had excellent views of the surrounding lakes and the glaciated west face of Ausangate . We continued up another pass before descending again to Lake Ausangatecocha . That was followed by Palomani Pass at 5000m , with impressive views of the mountain and a smaller peak , Santa Catalina . There are several peaks of just under 5000m in the vicinity . I descended towards Pampacancha and continued to the south side of Mount Ausangate , running alongside the Jampamayo River to the remote village of Jampa .
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