What ' s on the menu
eat out
THE FOX INN Alison Smith enjoys desserts as dainty as the décor and pub
classics as warming as the welcome at The Fox Inn in Corscombe
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For many years The Fox at Corscombe held an enviable reputation on the local dining scene ; following a brief dip in fortunes , it was purchased by a well-known local family intent on reviving its place as a hub of the local community .
Sitting across from a pleasant green , the building has classic English pub charm but with a femininity and a lightness often absent in the chunky rustic aesthetic of the average Inn . The thatch is delicately detailed , and vines meander up the walls . Inside there are giant barrels and slate bar tops , flagstone floors and oversized fireplaces . Alongside , there ' s a conservatory of which wedding reception dreams are made ; it ' s all lattice windows and fairy lights , an indoor grape vine and billowing fabric draped from above .
The food and drink
The cellar boasts three ciders on tap , including West Milton Cider , fermented nearby . Ales change periodically and always include a local beer like today ' s Branscombe Vale Best Bitter . The wine list is well considered , with local Sherborne Estates Dry Reserve and super trendy Picpoul de Pinet , alongside the traditional stalwarts , all reasonably priced from £ 15 a bottle .
The menu is dominated by unashamedly classic pub fare . There are faggots with gravy , battered fish , cheeseburgers and steak . Behind the bar are jars of home pickled eggs , one full of plump double yolkers , all from Beaminster ’ s “ Chicken Tim .” There is a clear appreciation of small scale local suppliers . Veg is grown in the village by
What ' s on the menu
Appetisers : from £ 2 , Starters : £ 5.50 - £ 8 , Mains : £ 10.50 - £ 19 , Desserts : £ 6 Wednesday & Thursday evening selected special and a pint £ 10
" The menu is dominated by unashamedly classic pub fare ... There ' s an appreciation of small local suppliers "
“ Oliver ” and “ Neil ”, and seasonal fish is caught by local fisherman Aubrey Banfield .
To appease our eager appetites we begin with homemade bread , before starters of smoked haddock kedgeree fishcakes and duck rillettes with celeriac remoulade . The duck is served on a board ; a generous quenelle of moist flesh , it has a strong roasted flavour with a hint of herbaceous thyme . The fishcake dish is exquisitely presented , three perfect spheres of crisp breaded rice , delicate boiled quail eggs and a procession of tiny dots of sauce , applied with great precision . The rice is delicately smoky with a creamy risotto texture . A garlic and white truffle aioli is handled with sensitivity , the truffle not overpowering but providing a welcome earthy base note . It ’ s a quirky and original take on an old favourite .
Stomachs primed we move on to heartier fare , with a chicken and mushroom pie from the specials board and ox cheek from the main menu . The former is from awardwinning Devon pie makers Tom ’ s Pies . Fully encased in buttery short crust pastry , the top is perfectly golden and studded with pungent tarragon – those awards are well earned . The ox cheek is slow braised and meltingly tender ; the billed ” warm salad ” upon which it is served , is , by my reckoning more of a ragout ; warming , homely nourishment with an unmistakable Italian influence .
The dessert
The dessert menu features old favourites given a new lease of life with interesting accompaniments . We are tempted by the gluten-free sponge with lavender poached pear but instead opt for a millionaire ' s shortbread chocolate mousse and a pistachio bakewell tart . Chef Aleisa Whicombe originally trained as a pastry chef and her expertise in this area is clear ; the bakewell tart would not look out of place in any patisserie window , layers of cherry jam and vibrant green pistachio frangipane iced crystal white and blood red and set within a fine sweet pastry case . The chocolate mousse is a layered confection , daintily presented in a glass , a light and fun take on a millionaire ' s shortbread slice .
Menu ’ s verdict
Sated , we steal away , leaving behind us a hubbub of conviviality ; a skittles team merry on the good stuff , drinkers and diners young and old alike . The Fox is , once again , a destination of which its village can be proud .
The Fox Inn Corscombe , Dorchester , Dorset , DT2 ONS www . foxinncorscombe . com 01935 892381 www . menu-dorset . co . uk