The Kitchen is Open
eat out
THE ANGEL POOLE
Market Street in Poole ’ s Old Town is a beautiful reminder of the port ’ s history . There , an enchanted Nick Marshall witnesses a miracle at The Angel …
Just across from the Grade II-listed Guildhall , The Angel is a traditional ale house recently refurbished into a bright , modern-looking gastropub . Dominated by an open central bar , the dining area is roomy and light , with an outside courtyard for summer drinking or a postprandial puff . Reopened in December 2016 , The Angel is sister pub to the Nothe Tavern in Weymouth . That means two taverns in two historic port towns , although these days foodies are more likely to outnumber the fishermen at the bar .
Driving the Old Town renaissance forward is executive chef Luciano and manager Darren . From the former comes artistic Latin flair and ambition honed at restaurants in Brazil , New York and London . From the latter , the unflustered charm that is the hallmark of a career in the brewery trade . As a result , the atmosphere is a convivial blend of town regulars in for
a sundowner and nearby office workers in search of something more inspiring for lunch than a Tesco meal deal . Their reward ? The Angel £ 6 lunchtime special with a chance to tuck into anything from fresh linguine to roasted pork belly over a pint .
The food
Pinning down The Angel ’ s modern British menu is a challenge . Not least because the menu changes every two months and 75 % of orders , according to Darren , are off the specials board . There is only one constant , in fact . Everything is made from scratch , with not a microwave ping in earshot .
Expect fresh , local produce with a discernible flourish . Sustainable fish such as hake or mackerel from Brixham , Portland
The Kitchen is Open
“ There is one constant ... Everything is made from scratch , with not a microwave in earshot ”
crab from Dorset Shellfish , or steaks and roasts sourced from Spring Fields butchers and farms in Wiltshire . As pub grub goes , it ’ s as far from the vulcanised Ploughman ’ s as humanly possible . Trained in classic French cuisine , Chef Luciano applies exquisite depth of flavour and texture to each dish without the distraction of purée swooshes or spot reductions . Instead , the focus is on sous-vide cooking to draw out the tenderness , and patient marinades to tantalise . It ’ s hard to believe there are only two chefs in the kitchen , not a brigade of sauciers .
Tonight ’ s special is braised Cornish octopus and watercress with a squid ink risotto . It ’ s what Marcus Wareing would solemnly proclaim a “ great plate of food ” if it appeared on MasterChef . The octopus is crisp and meaty , the black risotto wonderfully salty and creamy without overpowering the trace of chorizo oil .
For dessert , panna cotta with prunes in Armagnac . Or to be more accurate , prunes steeped in brandy for two weeks and dressed with an Earl Grey stock syrup . Each time I look up from a mesmerising spoonful to see pints being pulled at the bar , it comes as a shock . It ’ s just astounding to be reminded that this is , after all , a pub – the domain of pork scratchings and Scampi Fries , not sticky ribs and octopus . The real shock , however , is the tab . There ’ s hardly a starter in double-figures and most of the mains are under £ 15 .
The drinks
With The Angel stocked by Hampshire ’ s mighty Ringwood Brewery , servings of Razorback and Fortyniner provide the liquid accompaniment to this masterclass . Those of a slightly more refined palate , however , can choose from a range of wines around the £ 20 mark , including Argentinian Malbec , Chianti , South African Merlot and New World Sauvignon Blancs or Chardonnays .
Menu ’ s verdict
Places like The Angel provide an antidote to Poole ’ s lonely concrete office blocks . It just goes to show that for every planning catastrophe , there ’ s a stroke of planning genius . In this case , a creative menu , friendly atmosphere and some outstanding value for money .
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Mon - Sat 12.00 - 15.00 , 17.00 - 21.30 Sun 12.00 - 19.00
Bookings : The Angel Poole 28 Market Street , Poole , BH15 1NH
01202 666431 info @ theangelpoole . com www . theangelpoole . com
www . menu-dorset . co . uk