VENTANA GRAND CAFE at The Cumberland Hotel
What ' s on the menu
eat out
VENTANA GRAND CAFE at The Cumberland Hotel
Sections of East Cliff may be tumbling to sea level , but the double AA Rosette awarded
Ventana at The Cumberland Hotel is on the rise . Nick Marshall grabbed a table
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Executive Head Chef Steve Golding , formerly of Ascot Racecourse , took over at Ventana in October . Attaching a big name to a great location could well realise the hotel ’ s ambition of establishing one of the best modern British restaurants in the South West .
The restaurant
Distinctive Art Deco decor built around clean lines and flashes of purple and silver , it ’ s a blend of potted palms , chandeliers , candles and spotlights . In one corner , a high-backed armchair sits beneath a striking portrait of Roger Moore , the Bond connoisseur ’ s choice . By day , big windows look out over the sea . By night , the lights come down and the dining area
takes on a nightclub feel , where neither Tony Montana nor Frank Sinatra would feel out of place .
And while the dress code may very well be set to casual , waiting staff are turned out impeccably and deliver a service experience worthy of the West End .
The food
Steve Golding has pitched the menu around modern British classics , all ingredients locally sourced and seasonal . That means anything from Mudeford sea bass to Dorset lamb , finishing off with the already renowned Dorset cheese trolley .
One of the perks of a hotel restaurant is that there ’ s no stigma to dining alone . Straight from work , I can unwind and focus on recommendations offered to me by both the restaurant manager and the maître d ’. The evening starts with an
What ' s on the menu
“ The idea for the fish and chips is to take a British classic and make it memorableˮ
amuse-bouche of haricot blanc and white truffle velouté that is warm and voluptuous . Then I ’ m strong-armed into trying the half dozen Dorset rock oysters from Sandbanks . We haven ’ t even reached the appetisers yet , and I ’ m not that keen on oysters . “ It ’ s a fifty-fifty choice ,” the maître d ’ admits . “ But they have to be on the menu for a restaurant on the coast . We always sell out .” In fact , the flavours are wonderful and the texture surprisingly pleasant .
Next up , there ’ s lemon saffron arancini with globe artichoke purée – street food with a gourmet flourish .
For the main course , it ’ s Ventana fish and chips . The idea is to take a British coastal classic and make it memorable . Not a slab of warm cod on soggy chips , but tender morsels of monk fish scampi , tempura king prawns and cod goujons with handcut chips and a pea purée . It ’ s delightful .
Struggling now , I sideswipe the Dorset cheese trolley and opt instead to finish on something sweet . I savour an espresso first , then end with a selection of local ice cream .
Next time round , I ’ ll follow the lead of my neighbours and riff on a meat theme – quail or charcuterie , calves liver or braised lamb shank , or try the signature wild mushroom and pumpkin risotto . Tonight , though , has been a festival of seafood .
The drinks
The Ventana presents a very simple , unpretentious wine list based around reasonably priced Chilean reds , Spanish Riojas and French whites in the main , most around £ 20 a bottle . Alternatively , you can choose from the director ’ s cellar , which is stocked with Chablis , Burgundy , and so on . With London wines at Dorset prices , there ’ s no pressure . I take a peppery Sol Del Oro Chilean Merlot and full-depth Marques de Ulia Rioja . The selection of beers is modest , but for an aperitif to loosen up , the gin lounge offers some Conker Gin cocktails , such as the Dorset Martini .
Menu ’ s verdict
Online reviews are already unanimous in the excellent service at the Ventana – attentive but relaxed , even when the restaurant is busy . Perhaps it ’ s more suited to an era when diners dress up after 6pm , but setting this level from the outset is a clear statement of intent . So far , though , you ’ re guaranteed a broad , exciting menu , and a faultless dining experience .
Main Menu Starters £ 6.20 to £ 10.90 Mains £ 14.60 to £ 21.50 Desserts £ 5.90 to £ 7.20 Cheese trolley £ 11.90
Bookings : Ventana Grand Café , The Cumberland Hotel , East Overcliff Drive , Bournemouth , Dorset , BH1 3AF
Tel : 01202 556 529 www . cumberlandbournemouth . co . uk www . menu-dorset . co . uk