Cuisine
M
ost people visit the
Mississippi Gulf Coast
for their world-class golf
courses, 24-hour gaming
at one of the barefoot/
luxe casino resorts, or for some
sunbathing on the world’s longest
(26 miles) man-made (talcum soft
white sand) beach overlooking the
sparkling Gulf of Mexico. And who
doesn’t appreciate their famous
Southern hospitality? But as far
as I’m concerned, the reason I’m
already planning a return visit is
their exceptional food scene that
has emerged, yet again, after
Hurricane Katrina.
From shellfish shanties to Po’boy
trucks to BBQ sheds all the way
to four-star Steakhouses that give
Ruth’s Chris a run for its money, the
Mississippi Gulf coast has something
for every palate and budget.
spill over the 10 “ plates. They
recently reopened their Biloxi
location since the original café was
completely demolished by Hurricane
Katrina. The new one, perched high
on stilts, overlooks the Biloxi Small
Craft Harbor and the ocean.
IT: If you have the appetite of a
lumberjack (or a Georgia shrimper)
the morning shrimp & grits will
keep you full until dinner…the
following night!
The morning
Breakfast Club at
Triplet-Day Drugs
Best crab served in
one of the America’s
oldest homes
If you’re like me and think there is
no such thing as too much crab, wear
something you don’t mind getting
butter drippings on and head over
to the iconic Mary Mahoney’s,
located in a sprawling home, circa
1737. It is divided into a variety of
unique dining rooms or you can dine
in the open courtyard shaded by a
2,000-year-old giant oak tree. Start
with their addictive mess of crab
claws (offered broiled or fried)
followed by a zesty lump crabmeat
cocktail. Stretch your legs by
taking a tour of the magnificently
decorated rooms, best led by
Mary’s gregarious son Bobby, who
has inherited his mother’s legendary
“Hostess with the Mostess” title.
Bobby loves sharing historic “if
these walls could talk” tales as well
as entertaining you from his endless
supply of jokes. One of Mahoney’s
favorites is, “A bear and a bull are
coming right at you. All you have is
one bullet. Which do you shoot? The
Bear. You can always shoot the bull.”
Then back to the table for their
signature dish of Shrimp and Lump
Crabmeat St. Patrick, Mahoney’s
rift on garlicky escargot.
Mindy’s Bites with
secret Rynole sauce
Angel tree by 200
North Beach
The locals are fond of saying that
“Love in the South is spelled F-OO-D” and after spending a c alorieladen (but soooo worth it) few days
there, I have to say that these folks
really do live to eat.
Here are just a few, not-to-bemissed best bets from a very
long list of standouts:
Best chewy beignets
Hiding under a mountain of
powdered-sugar, the best piping
hot beignets can be found at
Triplett-Day Drug Co., a 59-year
old, family owned pharmacy, soda
fountain and gift shop. Triplett’s
feels so authentically old-fashioned,
that I almost expected “the Fonz” to
walk in. The secret to these greasefree, lighter-than-usual lovelies is
that they are made from biscuit
dough. It was a hoot watching the
tables full of breakfast club regulars
who gather daily to smooze over
morning coffee and beignets.
IT: Ask Bobby to point out Paul
Newman and Joanne Woodward’s
favorite table, the plaque by
Denzel Washington’s chair, the
watermark showing how high the
water rose during Katrina and the
framed Western Union Telegram
President John F. Kennedy sent
Mary. Ask nicely and he’ll even
read you a passage from a John
Grisham’s novel where he
mentions the restaurant.
IT: (Insider Tip) The equivalent
of “hitting the jackpot” would be
if you happen to visit when “Liver
& Onions” is offered as the daily
blue-plate special. This dish is so
popular that locals will add their
name to a call list in order to
get advance notification.
Best munchy to go
with a beer
Best brekkie with a view
Although the family-owned,
McElroy’s Seafood Restaurant
doesn’t officially open until 7:00am,
if you’re jet-lagged you can join the
locals, who often show up at 5:30am,
when the kitchen staff arrives,
sipping coffee at the counter
until the place opens. Not for
lightweights, the enormous pancakes
A new, casual all-American spot
(with Cajun overtones) Mindy’s Café,
offers some might tasty shrimp &
grits for breakfast, scrumptious
catfish Po’boys and a knock-out
Shrimp burger, which is funny
since Mindy never eats seafood.
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