Lead Magazine 1 | Page 19

Tips How to choose the right shoes W hen it comes to climbing, the right shoes can make or break you. Squeezing your feet into the smallest sizes possible – until your toes turn crippled and bent, and even start to take the shape of shoes themselves – seems to have become a bit of an obsession with climbers. But does this really improve your climbing? When choosing climbing shoes, it’s important to remember comfort comes first. After all, your shoes can seriously affect your climbing; you’re not going to want to climb if your feet are in agony, which is why it’s important to get it right. Where is the best place to get climbing shoes? It’s always advised to go to a good climbing or outdoors shop such as Cotswalds or Taunton Leisure. This way, you will be given a range of different types of climbing shoes, as well as advice from the people who work there on size or style. Always try before you buy. Sure, you could get a great bargain on EBay, but this won’t be any good if they don’t actually fit. Most climbers know that sizes in rock shoes can be confusing. They never seem to follow normal shoe sizes, meaning it can be easy to end up with a pair that doesn’t fit properly. This is normally because climbing shoes go by old shoe sizes, but also because they are often made smaller than ‘street shoes’. It is true – to an extent – that having slightly smaller shoes can sometimes be helpful. They can be easier on smaller holds you don’t want shoes so big you can’t even feel the edge on your toes. However, unnecessary pain is insane. Your shoes have to be comfortable else you’re not going to find climbing enjoyable. Plus, you don’t want shoes too tight; else they can dig in at the ankles. Not to mention, the health problems they can lead to, such as toe deformities and bunions. This is particularly dangerous for diabetics, who have to be more careful with their feet. Just remember: snug but comfortable. Another thing to consider: which style? Velcro or laces? Thick or thin Photos (top to bottom): ‘La Sportiva’, Alex Indigo. ‘Solutions 1’, Chris Gehlen ‘Boreal’, Juliet Sawyer 234 p18