La Playa Panama - Volume 15, April 2014 | Page 11

P. 11 - LA PLAYA APRIL / ABRIL 2014 WWW.PLAYACOMMUNITY.COM To Advertise / Para Publicidad: [email protected] CANDELA’S GRILL & RESTAURANT BY EPICURIOUS EM T here’s a new “kid on the block,” Candela Grill, located approximately 6 km from The Rey in Coronado heading towards the city, directly across from Banco National in Chame. Candela is the creation of Owner Diomedes (who prefers to be called “Junior”), and is assisted by his wife, Ana, and brother-in-law, Juan. Candela has replaced the former Rincon Cubano Restaurant. My spouse and I were invited to a tasting dinner shortly after the restaurant had been open three weeks. It was very special, since we were given small tastes of many dishes; therefore, we were able to sample and discuss them. We started with clams in garlic sauce. My husband claims to be an expert on clams and gave this succulent dish his blessing. The clams came out steamy hot and sweet in a luscious sauce of celery, garlic, peppers, parsley, carrot, butter, and I suspect, white wine. Definitely a go for $6.95, and the hot, crispy garlic bread ($2.50) was the perfect accompaniment. Next came a trio of ceviches: corvina, pulpo, and shrimp ($3.95-$4.95). We both concurred that they are the best we have had in Panama. The ceviches awoke our taste buds with crunchy veggies, a tangy sauce, and well-marinated fish. They are made fresh daily, and Junior uses fresh lime and a little bit of vinegar. I am not a fan of pulpo, but would eat this ceviche in a heartbeat. Our sampling of entrees included small and jumbo shrimp in garlic sauce, fried white sea bass, grilled sea bass fillet, seafood stew, and roast young pork. Sometimes the delicate flavor of shrimp becomes unpalatable when overcooked or rendered tasteless when masked with floury sauces, certainly not a mistake at Candela. These tomato-based sauces are unbelievably good with an infinite variety of textures, flavors, and colors, and compliment the shrimp and seafood. We loved the fried corvina, which was crispy, flakey and tender—just the way you want it. While all of the dishes were delicious, it was unanimous! We favored the fried corvina and the seafood stew. Entrees range from $8.95 - $12.50, which is quite a bargain. Candela offers a surf and turf for ($39.95), and the Candela seafood mix ($42.95), both to be shared. Included on the menu are three chicken dishes ($7.95), punto de palomilla, similar to a New York steak ($9.95), and churrasco, a Panamanian beef ($8.95). Complimentary side dish choices are French fries, yucca, congri rice (a Columbian recipe with black beans, garlic, onion, pork and culantro), or green salad. The restaurant serves sodas, juices, and tea ($1.50-$2.50), national beer ($2), imported beer ($2.50), cocktails, liquors, Sangria, and Frontera wine. Junior is no stranger to the restaurant business, having an existing r