Menu a la Harts Christmas
THE BRUSSELS
SPROUT
TALKING
TURKEY
See Russell’s
turkey cooking
tips on
page 64
Rehabilitate this much maligned brassica with
fresh recipes that can convert sprout haters in one bite
T
he sprout falls into the same category
as Marmite, loved and hated in equal
measure, but does it deserve the bad
reputation? I have to say probably
not, even though I, too, have been
guilty of rubbishing the sprout in
the past. Memories of school dinners and slimy
sulphurous blobs can cause deep scars! My
conversion may only have been partial, but
breaking sprouts down into individual leaves and
quickly stir frying in garlic-infused oil was a
revelation. Sweet, crisp and nutty, this makes a
delicate garnish for a roast duck breast.
Part of the problem with sprouts is that, when
they are overcooked, the sulphur compounds
called isothiocyanates break down during
cooking to produce hydrogen sulphide causing
their particularly pungent smell and contributing
to the bitter flavour. Fortunately, modern varieties
are much less prone to the problem and if you
keep the cooking light the issue should be avoided.
To prepare your sprouts, trim a small layer off
the stem, remove damaged or discoloured leaves,
then soak in lukewarm water for 10 minutes.
Drain, and if roasting allow to dry. Steaming is a
better way of cooking sprouts than boiling as it
cooks more evenly reducing the risk of a soggy
outside and hard centre. If the sprouts are large or
uneven cut them into halves or quarters. This will
help keep the texture even and cooking time brief.
Adding acidity, sweetness or salt to sprouts also
helps offset any slight bitter notes. Think about
many common pairings with sprouts – chestnuts
add sweetness, bacon adds salt, dressings add
acidity. The following recipes may do something to
enhance the sprout’s reputation.
SAUTÉED SPROUTS
WITH SALTED ALMOND
AND ORANGE
INGREDIENTS
Serves 4
250g Brussels sprouts, washed
10g olive oil
1 orange, juice and zest
20g unsalted butter
50g roasted salted almonds, sliced
Maldon sea salt and fresh
black pepper
METHOD
Finely slice the sprouts using a
sharp cook’s knife or a mandolin.
Heat the olive oil in a wok or large
frying pan. Add the sliced sprouts
and season. Sauté quickly over
a high heat for one minute and
then add the orange juice and
zest. Reduce the orange juice until
syrupy, remove from the heat and
stir the butter through. Check the
seasoning and then toss through
the salted almonds.
SPROUT, RAISIN AND
PECORINO SLAW
INGREDIENTS
Serves 4
250g Brussels sprouts, washed
2tsp Maldon sea salt for salting
50g crème fraîche
50g mayonnaise
40g Pecorino, finely grated
75g golden raisins, soaked in
boiling water
Maldon sea salt and fresh
black pepper
METHOD
Finely slice the sprouts using a
sharp cook’s knife or mandolin.
Wash and then mix with the
two teaspoons of salt. Leave for
30 mins, then rinse. Squeeze in
a clean tea towel to dry. Mix the
crème fraîche, mayo and Pecorino,
season to taste. Drain the raisins
and pat dry with kitchen paper.
Mix the sprouts with the dressing
and raisins. Check seasoning.
T H E K I T L I S T Your sprout survival kit
Zyliss SmartGuard Dexam Swift Spice
Gourmet
25cm Bamboo
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Microplane
Premium Classic
Series Zester /
Grater
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17
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Eddingtons
Orange Squeezer
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Cole & Mason
Chiswick Mini
Electronic Mill
Gift Set
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