FEATURE
who still continue to explore the
boundaries of jewellery get called
‘art jewellers’.
“It works against the value
of jewellery when we have this
definition because what you really
realise is that people don’t value
jewellery as an art-form in itself,
so people have to state it as ‘art
jewellery’ because what people
start to think of as art jewellery
is a mass-produced aesthetic such
as Pandora. That is what people
think of when you say jewellery
not those who are exploring
jewellery as a form of art and
expression.”
Freedom of Expression
The allure of the medium for
artists/designers and for those
purchasing is the freedom of
expression that comes along with
it - the freedom to create and wear
jewellery that stands out from the
crowd. Art jewellery, Brewster
December 2018 | jewelleryfocus.co.uk
says, is centred around this idea.
“I did not start to make jewellery
for any other reason than I had
an idea. I don’t consider myself
a jeweller and I did not study
jewellery at university. I just had
an idea and the best way to express
that idea was through jewellery.
The reason I am an artisan and
not a designer for a larger business
is that I can approach my design
as an individual as opposed to a
larger business with constraints.
The more I have made jewellery
the stronger my opinions on it
have become.”
Brewster reveals that some
of her favourite pieces she has
made have been in response to
criticism coming from the point
of view of “what is expected”. In
her first collection called ‘Ebony
Resolution’, Brewster says a lot
of clients critiqued the pieces for
“[looking] very heavy”, but when
they actually tried them on they
‘‘
Brewster reveals
that some of
her favourite
pieces she has
made have been
in response to
criticism coming
from the point of
view of “what is
expected”
‘‘
Simone Brewster
were very lightweight. “That is
because as opposed to the stuff on
the general market my pieces are
quite large and they expect it to be
bulky, instead they are extremely
wearable.” She continues: “As
a response to that comment I
decided to make this rather large
red rubber abstract piece - as part
of a concept called ‘Conversations
in Weight’”. Again Brewster
describes the creation as a “huge
mass” but when picked up was
extremely light due to the fact it
was made from foam that had
been coated. “That is one of my
favorite pieces because it is a bit
tongue in cheek,” Brewster muses.
Cipriani also argues that
traditional jewellery design is
often “governed by society’s
conventions” – its primary aim
is to enhance the beauty of the
gemstone or the wearer. Art
jewellery does not have these
constraints – “it can challenge the
wearer, send a message, make a
statement”. Artists have free rein
over their pieces and can challenge
the boundaries of design in a way
more commercial designer often
cannot.
The art jewellery market
Cipriani explains that when she
started commissioning artists
to make wearable art back in
2009, “not many people were
interested” in the subject matter,
mainly due to what she calls a
“lack of knowledge”. Today
however, collectors are “becoming
increasingly aware” of artists
making jewellery, and they know
much more about it. She also
surmises there’s been a shift, not
only of interest, but of taste.
“Before
people
wanted
to spend their money on a
Cartier, but then they looked at
themselves, and saw they were
just the same as other people,
without a personality. I noticed
that when clients come back to
me, they’re very happy to buy
JEWELLERY FOCUS
19