CARL F. BUCHERER
MANERO PERIPHERAL LADIES
Carl F Bucherer’s second-generation in-house CFB A2000 movement is
a pleasure to observe in action, in part because the peripheral rotor
never hides the bridges and gears within.
You may recall that last year Bucherer watchmakers enhanced the
A2000 to include a new 4hz beat rate – up from 3hz in the earlier
A1000. This meant greater precision. The new free-sprung balance
increased resistance to shock-induced timing deviation. Indeed, CEO
Sascha Moeri stressed to iW last year that the new caliber was
designed with the goal of producing “Ferrari performance with
Mercedes reliability.”
In part because the peripheral concept enables a low case thickness,
the new movement is perfect for the thin dimensions of ladies’ watches.
Thus Carl F. Bucherer this year places that new movement within a
40mm Manero Peripheral, set with a diamond-bezel and a choice of
mother-of-pearl dials. While not a traditional size for feminine wrists,
the watch is being billed as a ladies model. I’d argue for gender
neutrality, especially with the brown-dialed model.
The layout offers a central hour and minute display accompanied by
small seconds at 6 o’clock and a date. A power reserve of 55 hours and a
COSC chronometer rating only underscore this watch’s serious specs.
Alligator leather straps complete the overall look; the white variant
features a contrasting black strap, while a leather strap accompanies
the model with the velvet brown dial.
Price: $9,800.
FRANCK MULLER
VANGUARD LADY MOONPHASE
With a moon phase display at 6 o’clock and a self-winding mechanical
movement, this Lady Moonphase expands Vanguard’s feminine side.
Franck Muller places the display to show the Moon’s cycles through a
mother-of-pearl opening on a guilloché or full diamonds dial. Accented
by a stylish line on the side of the 32mm by 42.3mm case, the rose gold
watch is powered by a Franck Muller manual-wind movement visible
through a clear sapphire caseback. The alligator strap features
matching colorful stitches. Price upon request.
WINTER 2019 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | 57