2018 basel review
CARL F. BUCHERER
MANERO TOURBILLON DOUBLE PERIPHERAL
This impressive new extension of Carl F. Bucherer’s very specific
know-how boasts an interesting tourbillon within Calibre CFB
T3000. The movement combines the firm’s well-known peripheral
rotor with a peripherally mounted tourbillon that seems to float
freely. The carriage, rather than rotating on a center ruby bearing, is
supported around the edge, peripherally, by three ceramic ball
bearings. You can see the tourbillon without obstruction from front
and back on this 43mm gold watch. Price: $72,300.
MAURICE LACROIX’S
LATEST MASTERPIECE
Maurice Lacroix has kept gear heads enthralled for nearly eight years
since the debut of its first Masterpiece Roué Carrée. The dial-side
meshing of square and cloverleaf-shaped gears endlessly fascinates
enthusiasts, and Maurice Lacroix has presented fans with numerous
iterations of the design in the years since. Few watches inspire gear
gazing at a higher frequency.
This year, the firm meshes another of its best-known displays, the
retrograde calendar, with the square-cloverleaf combo to offer the
Masterpiece Square Wheel Retrograde.
Made in a 43mm stainless steel case with two optional dial colors, the
43mm Square Wheel Retrograde from Maurice Lacroix now features a
fan-shaped retrograde calendar at 5 o’clock in addition to its
emblematic squared and geared seconds indicator at 9 o’clock.
For many years, Maurice Lacroix’s Masterpiece collection attracted
collectors who marveled at the dial-side retrograde displays distributed
artfully around beautifully finished dials. While the Masterpiece lineup now
focuses on the firm’s Gravity and Mysterious Seconds models, plus a
selection of interesting contemporary skeleton watches, you can (happily)
still find several classic retrograde models anchoring the collection.
The latest Square Wheel movement, in-house automatic movement
ML258, has a power reserve of 36 hours and features rhodium-plated
bridges and a rhodium-plated skeletonized rotor with vertical Côtes de
Genève. The gears, hands and indexes are made with two options (blued
or rose-gold-plated) over a silver or anthracite dial. The black alligator
“easychange” leather strap is secured by a stainless steel folding buckle.
Price: $7,490.
90 | INTERNATIONAL WATCH | SUMMER 2018