BASELREVIEW2017
Sport/Adventure
TRASER
P59 AURORA
GMT
THIS NEW MODEL COMBINES its own in-house
manufactured illumination technology (called
Trigalight) with SuperLumiNova to mimic a type of
light show on the dial. As darkness sets in, the green
glow of the SuperLumiNova on the upper GMT circle,
on the glass gasket and on the 6, 9 and 12 gradually
fade. The blue and green Trigalight continues to glow
around the clock. Prices: $395-$495
TUDOR
HERITAGE BLACK BAY STEEL &
HERITAGE BLACK BAY CHRONO
JUST TWO OF TUDOR’S HIGH-PROFILE 2017 debuts, these offerings feature Tudor’s new in-house chronograph and, with
the second model, expands Tudor’s offerings in the dive watch category. With a brushed steel bezel and a new date
window, Tudor’s new Heritage Black Bay Steel the 41mm-diameter retains the case dimension of the existing Heritage
Black Bay watches, but also debuts a modified in-house caliber with a date display, new for Heritage Black Bay line.
Tudor has machined the new steel bezel and has finished it with a circular satin-brushing that leaves a matte
appearance quite different from previous black, blue and red bezels seen on the steel-cased 2016 Tudor Heritage Black
Bay models.
The new Tudor Manufacture Caliber MT5612 is the latest in the series of Tudor in-house movements that debuted in
2015 for the Pelagos and North Flag collections, and slightly different from the MT5602 found in last year’s Heritage Black
Bay models. The Caliber MT5612 movement retains its impressive 70-hour power reserve (which, as Tudor reminds us,
means a wearer can take off the watch on Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to
re-set and wind it). Known for their robust construction, these 4 Hz Tudor calibers feature a silicon balance spring and are
certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Tudor again uses its own riveted bracelet, which debuted in this collection to many accolades last year. As a reminder,
the bracelet design is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets Tudor made in the 1950s and 1960s. The watch can also be
purchased on a black aged leather strap with folding clasp. Both versions come with an additional khaki green fabric
strap. Prices: $3,475 (on black aged leather strap) and $3,800 (on stainless steel, riveted bracelet). Both models come with
an additional khaki fabric strap included at no additional cost.
The 41mm Tudor lack Bay Chrono is notably equipped with the MT5813, a new caliber made in collaboration
with Breitling. This watch’s strong $4,725 opening price tag was made possible thanks to the serialized nature of the
Breitling 01 (B-01) column-wheel chronograph caliber, which Breitling introduced in 2009. Tudor then added its own
in-house adjustable mass balance wheel with silicon spring and a Tudor rotor to claim the final movement as its own.
Tudor has also retained its unusual 45-minute counter at three o’clock.
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