Italian American Digest 7Italian American Digest FALL 2018 | Page 18

I talian A merican D igest
PAGE 18
FALL 2018
‘Green’ Italian Wine: A Growing Trend
Cantina Gini Organic Vineyards in Soave, Veneto
by Beth Ribblett
wineries are Barone Pizzini, Francia-
corta; Cantina Gini, Soave; Castello
di Volpaia, Tuscany; Tenuta Terre
Nere, Sicily.
Biodynamic agriculture is an ex-
treme form of organic farming which
adds a spiritual methodology to
grape growing and wine production.
Developed in the 1920s by Austri-
an philosopher and scientist Rudolf
Steiner, the goal of the farm is to be a
self-sustaining ecosystem, where ide-
The constantly growing trend in
the wine world of ecofriendly prac-
tices can be confusing with many
wineries promoting themselves as
natural, organic or biodynamic.
Whether you believe in the benefits
or not, Italian “green wine” exports
are booming, with the U.S. and Ger-
many the top destinations.
Here’s a quick primer on the agri-
Organic garganiga grapes at Cantina Gini in Soave, Veneto.
cultural practices with examples of
Italian wines available in
the New Orleans market.
ally nothing is brought However, due to the high costs,
“Organic” is a term
in from outside and
many wineries practice biodynam-
most of us can relate to
nothing is wasted.
ics without obtaining certification.
in regard to agricultural
• No inorganic
A few examples of certified biody-
products.
substances or chemical namic Italian wineries are Foradori,
So what does it mean
fertilizers are allowed
Trentino; Alois Lageder, Alto Adige;
in terms of wine?
in the vineyard.
Musella, Veneto.
• In the vineyards the
• Specific prepa-
“Natural” is probably the hardest
use of chemicals, pesti-
rations are used to
category of winemaking to define as
cides or fungicides are
enhance the life of the
there are no certifications, set rules or
prohibited by law.
soil such as burying
standards – only those self-imposed
• In winemaking there
cow horns packed
by the winemaker.
is little to no manipula-
with manure or skulls,
The popular mantra of “nothing
tion of wines and flavor
cow intestines, or deer
added, nothing taken away” means
additives are prohibited.
bladders packed with
there is minimal intervention by hu-
• The use of sulfites
specific herbs that
man hands, allowing the wine to do
is strictly controlled by
are buried for months
what it would do naturally.
law. The EU rules for
before the contents are
• Grapes are hand-picked from
“organic wine” allows a
mixed with water and
sustainable, organic, or biodynamic
maximum of 100 parts
ritually applied to the
vineyards.
per million for red wine
soil.
• In the cellar, the juice ferments
and 150 for whites and
• Crops are planted
with indigenous yeasts rather than
rosés (compared to their
and harvested ac-
adding commercial yeasts.
conventional counter-
cording to the lunar
• Generally no sugar, enzymes,
parts at 150 for reds/200
calendar based on the
acid, tannins, water or coloring are
for whites and rosés).
position of the moon,
added to make up for what is lacking
• To print the organic
planets and stars.
and the wines are unfiltered.
seal on their packaging,
• Sulfites must be
• Little or no sulfites are added.
the ingredients and prac-
less than 100 parts per
• Examples of natural Italian
tices must be approved
million.
producers include The Juice Asylum,
by a government body.
• Biodynamic wines Tuscany; La Stoppa, Emilia Romag-
• A few examples of
Clay amphora are prepared for wine storage at COS Winery in are certified by De-
na; Occhipinti, Sicily; Emidio Pepe,
Italian certified organic
Vittoria, Sicila.
meter or Biodyvin.
Abruzzo; Radikon, Friuli.