Issue No.22 - International Edition Polo De’Marco Magazine - International Edition | Page 160

2. What is the most distinctive
characteristic that you believe one needs
to possess in order to be an excellent Chef
de Caves?
HD: A good cellar master must be sensitive,
precise and patient. Emotions fuel our
creativity. It’s a world of details where harmony
is sometimes difficult to detect but it is such a
delight and a reward when the wine is in tune
with our creative impressions.As the 7th cellar
master I perpetuate the House style and this
principle guides the selection of the different
wines that will be blended. During the period of
the clear wines tasting and blending, I devote
myself entirely to the sensory analysis of the
wines of the last harvest. For a new cuvée, it’s
a bit like an artist, it’s an emotion that guides
our choice.In 200 years, Perrier-Jouët has had
only seven cellar masters, each trained by his
predecessor, like craftsmen who jealously pass
on the secret of their art from father to son.
Before becoming the guardian of this precious
knowledge since 1993, I spent ten years
working with mentor André Baveret to master
the subtleties of the floral signature created
by Pierre-Nicolas Perrier. Sharing the master
craftsman’s philosophy as an artist, I see each
cuvée as a unique piece, working the blends
with a highly original approach guided by
intuition and know-how, giving each wine the
charm, elegance and finesse that characterizes
the Perrier-Jouët style.On my retirement, I will
pass on this unique heritage to my designated
successor, Séverine Frerson, who will become
the first female cellar master in the history
of the Maison Perrier-Jouët. Throughout her
career, she has developed remarkable expertise
combined with an exceptional intuition and
memory that allow her to know each wine in all
its complexity.
stage in the elaboration of the cuvée. It is the
major step in the final work and is the result of
an association of different wines which, for each
of their specificity, will contribute to reproduce
the constancy of the Perrier-Jouët style with
a dominant of Chardonnay. It is a know-how
acquired through the experience and the
transmission from Cellar Master to Cellar
Master for seven generations.
4. Perrier Jouet is known for its delicately
fragrant and refined champagnes. Tell
us please about how the ingredient of
Chardonnay adds to this special effect in
your champagnes.
HD: Perhaps it’s been part of my life since I was
young: my grandparents were winegrowers in
Côte de Blancs for Chardonnay — and they had a
lot of it when I was young. Perhaps that gave me
motivation to make the best quality champagne
made with Chardonnay.
Chardonnay is the emblematic grape of the
House. Perrier-Jouët is renowned for its floral
and intricate champagnes which reveal the true
essence of the Chardonnay grape.
5. In your opinion as a master Chef de
Caves, at what age is a champagne
basically perfect?
HD: Perrier-Jouët’s classic rangeand Belle
Epoque range are composed of exceptional
wines, which embody the House’s unique
Chardonnay know-how and age more than
twice as long as required by the Champagne
appellation. The time of ageing in cellars, a
period of enrichment of the wine in contact
with the yeast deposit, is essential to develop
specific aromas.
3. Please explain in a brief summary the
process from the creation of a champagne
formulation to its approval and execution
in production. How complicated of a 6. Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and his wife, Rose
process is this, and how long does it Adélaide Jouët were avid botanists, and
usually take?
fascinated with flowers, incorporating
them often into their champagnes,
HD: Upstream of the process of creating including occasionally exotic fruits. Tell
the cuvées, Maison Perrier-Jouët owns an us more about this. Has this historic
exceptional vineyard in Epernay, the majority legacy influenced your current methods of
of whose 65 hectares are classified Grand creation at Perrier-Jouët?
Cru. Champagne production begins with the
grape harvest, followed by the pressing,
fermentation
and
clarification phases. I
attach particular importance to bringing out
the exceptional character of our soil located
on the Côte des Blancs, which provides the
soil for Chardonnay, the emblematic grape
variety of the House. Blending is an essential
HD: Art and nature have been an integral part
of Maison Perrier-Jouët since its foundation
in 1811. Inherited of its founders who were
passionate about Art Nouveau, it is part
of its history and heritage. Today, the House
regularly collaborates with emerging artists and
houses one of the largest private collection of
French Art Nouveau in Maison Belle Epoque.
This heritage is a great source of inspiration
for me. Floral and intricate, the Perrier-Jouët
style is a reflection both of its emblematic grape
variety and its enduring tradition of savoir-
faire – an unparalleled expertise in enhancing
the freshness and finesse of Chardonnay and
revealing the many facets of its bouquet of white
flowers.For over 35 years I’ve had the privilege
of crafting floral cuvées of timeless elegance,
perpetuating the savoir-faire and style of the
House. And from now on, Séverine Frerson
will be the one perpetuating the heritage of Art
Nouveau within Perrier-Jouët.
7. What are the percentages of various
grapes most commonly used for your
champagnes, and specifically for the
“Belle Epoque” signature champagnes?
HD: Regarding the cuvee, Perrier-Jouët Belle
Epoque is always a vintage: it is only produced
during the years where the balance between
alcohol and acidity is perfect and that the
ageing potential is outstanding, because this
cuvee stays at least 6 years in our cellars. Our
prestige cuvée, is the House’s iconic blend of
the three grape varieties: 50% Chardonnay, 45%
Pinot Noir, and 5% Meunier on average. We
have always appreciated Pinot Meunier, which
is found in the majority of our cuvées.With
Belle Epoque, we get an impression on the
mouth and nose of fullness, of fine aromas,
a structure, and especially a long finish that
allows you to go from Chardonnay to Pinot Noir
without realizing.Chardonnays come from the
Côte des Blancs and the Pinot Noir comes
from two zones: Mailly, Verzy and Verzenay in
the north of the Montagne de Reims, less sunny,
where we often harvest last, and Ay, in proximity
to Epernay.
The Meunier comes from our own vineyard
in Dizy which, with aging, will bridge the gap
between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and
allow the blend to gain harmony and richness.
Without the Meunier, we would get two
different expressions at different times, first the
Chardonnay and then the Pinot Noir, whereas we
are looking to achieve a harmonious expression.
The Pinot Noir is the pillar of this blend by giving
it the structure while leaving the Chardonnay
on top with its brilliance, its elegance, and its
lightness that we must always find even after
six years aging on lees.