iS Skin Source 2021 Q4 | Page 43

Vitamin A through your diet . Using topical products can replace Vitamin A in the skin in as little as three hours .
With various retinoid options and individual levels of deficiency , requirements vary . Each person adjusts and tolerates use differently . To better understand this , we can follow the Vitamin A pathway .
Esters ( Lipids )
Retinyl palmitate
Retinyl acetate
Retinyl propionate
Most Gentle
Ester

Retinoids

Alcohols
Retinol
Retinol
Acids
Retinoic acid
Retinoic Acid
Most Active
Retinol Is Not The Only Worthwhile Retinoid .
Retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate – Both esters are easy for the skin to tolerate . More than 80 % of Vitamin A in the skin is retinyl palmitate . Retinyl acetate penetrates the skin quickly , and it is nearly as active as retinoic acid but is easier on the skin .
Retinyl propionate – This small ester molecule can penetrate from the epidermis to the dermis , which evokes healthy collagen synthesis . This ester has more stability to light than other retinoids .
Retinol – This highly active form of alcohol has been trending for years . The pathway from retinol to retinoic acid is shorter than it is from ester forms . Faster results equate to higher consumer demand . Consumers frequently use the word “ retinol ” when speaking of Vitamin A in any form and are oblivious to the various other forms . Retinol is less stable than ester forms . Higher keratolytic concentrations can sensitize cells .
Retinoic acid – This is the acidic form , which has the capability to repair DNA and influence stronger gene communication among the genes regulating stratum basale thickening . It also influences normal tissue development , collagen stimulation , and more .
Pharmaceutical retinoids – Some pharmaceuticals , such as tretinoin ( RetinA ) and isotretinoin ( Accutane ), are also Vitamin A ( retinol ) derivatives . These drugs are more keratolytic , have more severe side effects , and are not universally required for skin health . Their discussion is not included herein .
Vitamin A is a natural component of our body ’ s structure .
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