TRAVEL
Classic techniques meet contemporary creativity, with confident cooking, beautifully sourced ingredients and moments of tableside theatre. It is a different expression of the chef’ s philosophy, with dishes designed to be savoured and shared.
The wagyu carpaccio, proffered as a starter but that could’ ve served two for a main, was served over a crisp, buttery potato millefeuille and was particularly accomplished. Delicate beef and the contrasting crunch of impossibly thin potato layers made for an indulgent combination.
The Canarian-style beef Wellington arrived tableside, its golden pastry sliced to reveal beautifully cooked beef within. There is considerable confidence required to present a dish like this in front of guests and the kitchen absolutely delivered.
Then came Amalur’ s celebrated bespoke dessert trolley, wheeled to the table laden with temptation. From tiramisù to banoffee pie, the choice was wonderfully indulgent, although the Basque cheesecake was an absolute must. Deeply caramelised on top, with a soft, creamy centre and that distinctive balance of sweetness and gentle bitterness, it deserved every bit of its reputation.
Japanese dining takes centre stage at OKA, the concept led by acclaimed chef Richard Sanz. Watching the chefs hand-roll nigiri at the counter offered an introduction to the precision behind the menu, while the team encouraged us to explore everything from delicate usuzukuri to signature nigiri and larger dishes from the robata grill.
The standout was a wonderfully inventive fish and chips usuzukuri. Thick-cut white fish, crisp batter shards and potato crisps delivered the unmistakable flavours of salt and vinegar, but reimagined within a delicate raw-fish preparation. The signature‘ pizza’ nigiri was a close second though, bringing tuna, basil, Parmesan and tomato tartare together in a playful combination that worked remarkably well.
Yet, it’ s not just the fine dining that has been curated to precision, even poolside dining has its own following. La Carola is known for its sandwiches and salads, but director of marketing Maria was insistent that we simply had to try the rice.
How good could rice really be? Very good as it turned out. We chose the‘ beef rice’, presented in an enormous paella pan by the wonderfully effervescent Francisco, who looked after us at breakfast and lunch throughout much of our stay. Rich, deeply flavoured rice, beautifully caramelised at the edges and infused with the savoury juices of the beef, it was absolutely one of our most enjoyable lunches.
Between meals, there was time to discover another impressive element of Gran Hotel
Taoro’ s transformation. Purpose-built into the hillside, the new Sandára Wellness Center takes full advantage of the hotel’ s extraordinary position, with panoramic views across the gardens, Orotava Valley and towards Mount Teide. There is something particularly calming about its separation from the main hotel, with the contemporary interiors creating a peaceful sanctuary away from the activity of the restaurants and terraces.
Treatments have been developed in collaboration with French luxury skincare house Anne Semonin, bringing a personalised approach to the spa’ s collection of facials and body rituals. I opted for a 90-minute full-body massage, an indulgent stretch of uninterrupted relaxation that allowed time for the therapist to work through areas of tension without any sense of rushing. Long, flowing movements and carefully applied pressure eased tired muscles, while the quiet surroundings encouraged a welcome slowing of pace. Emerging from the treatment room to those magnificent views of Mount Teide rising above the valley was a rather lovely way to return to the afternoon.
Of course, even the most spectacular surroundings and accomplished cooking would mean considerably less without the people bringing it all together and the team at Gran Hotel Taoro deserve particular praise. There is a genuine passion for the hotel and its new culinary direction, matched by a wonderfully effortless approach to service. From the warmth of our welcome at check-in to the enthusiastic recommendations that guided us through each restaurant’ s menu, every interaction felt personal, attentive and refreshingly natural. Nothing was ever too much trouble, from arranging another cheeseboard to enjoy on the terrace as the sun dipped towards the Atlantic( or in our ironic case behind yet more cloud) to remembering our favourite coffee at breakfast or producing a perfectly shaken espresso martini as a post-dinner digestif. It is this instinctive hospitality, delivered with such warmth and confidence, that makes the luxury feel entirely unforced.
Gran Hotel Taoro’ s restoration has given one of Tenerife’ s most historic hotels a remarkable second life. Its architecture, gardens and extraordinary views across Mount Teide and the Atlantic honour the grandeur of its past, while the restaurants have established a compelling identity for its future.
For anyone who plans their travels as much for what’ s served at the table as the destination, Gran Hotel Taoro deserves a place on your list.
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