TRAVEL
GRAN HOTEL TAORO: A TASTE OF TENERIFE
THERE ARE HOTELS WHOSE LOCATION ALONE MAKES THEM WORTH VISITING AND OTHERS WHOSE RESTAURANTS PROVIDE REASON ENOUGH TO BOOK A FLIGHT. GRAN HOTEL TAORO, OVERLOOKING PUERTO DE LA CRUZ ON TENERIFE’ S NORTHERN COAST, MAKES A COMPELLING CASE FOR BOTH, AS SAMANTHA READY DISCOVERED.
Originally opened in 1890, this grand dame of Canarian hospitality has welcomed European royalty, distinguished travellers and literary figures including Agatha Christie, whose time in Puerto de la Cruz helped inspire her writing. Now part of the My Way Hotels & Resorts collection, the hotel has undergone an extensive restoration, having lain forgotten for almost a quarter of a century since its last stint as the region’ s casino. The result is a breathtaking and sympathetic reimagining, bringing the architectural elegance of its 19th-century origins together with a thoroughly contemporary approach to luxury.
Its position is also extraordinary. From our room, a stunning third-floor suite with dual aspect views and a balcony, as well as from the hotel’ s in-demand terrace, Mount Teide rose dramatically to the left, its volcanic slopes providing a magnificent contrast to the gardens and rooftops descending towards the rolling Atlantic. Depending on the time of day, the landscape shifted between hazy blues, deep greens and the warm terracotta tones of the town below.
Yet, while the architecture and views provide plenty of reasons to linger, it is the hotel’ s ambitious culinary offering that deserves particular attention.
At its heart is Lava, an intimate fine-dining restaurant conceived by two-Michelin-starred chef Erlantz Gorostiza, whose culinary vision is central to Gran Hotel Taoro’ s gastronomic offering. Here, a 12-course tasting menu explores Tenerife’ s ingredients, landscapes and culinary traditions through imaginative combinations, technical precision and a healthy appetite for the unexpected.
We began with a trio of appetisers: a delicate sliver of cured tuna arrived perched upon a miniature meringue providing an intriguing contrast between saline fish and fragile sweetness. A moreish potato churro with fresh, zingy mojo verde; and a surprising eel nori cup laced with cream and apple. This was followed by an incredible blackened sourdough accompanied by smoked olive oil and charcoal butter. The bread’ s dark exterior concealed a wonderfully soft centre, its subtle smokiness complemented by the richness of the butter.
The dish simply entitled‘ Queso, Tomato, Cacao’ was particularly clever. Taking the familiar flavours of a Caprese salad, the kitchen reimagined them through herb gel, frozen tomato and an extraordinary cheese mousse. Each element was distinct, yet together they delivered that unmistakable combination of sweet tomato, fresh herbs and creamy cheese.
Sweet peppers were prepared as someone’ s grandmother might have made them; blackened, peeled and swirled through rich egg yolk- simple ingredients treated with extraordinary care.
Then came the wagyu brioche with mushroom ketchup. Rich, buttery bread, deeply savoury beef and the concentrated umami of mushrooms combined in a mouthful that was quite simply sensational. The sort of course that leaves you wishing the tasting menu allowed for seconds. Although there was of course still cuttlefish, sea bass and a very good pineapple tatin to come.
The wine pairings were equally memorable. A 2020 Trimbach Gewürztraminer brought fragrant lychee, rose petal and gentle spice, while the 2023 Jable de Tao Isla Blanco offered a more mineral expression, with citrus freshness and a saline edge. The Tamarán Listán Negro introduced bright red fruit, pepper and subtle volcanic earthiness, before the Sitta Dulce Nana rounded things off with honeyed fruit and a beautifully balanced sweetness. Together, they demonstrated the breadth of wines that can complement such imaginative cooking.
At Amalur, Gorostiza’ s culinary direction takes a more generous, elemental approach, with a menu divided into earth, water, air and fire.
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