FOOD + DRINK
who missed one of the main men in action in their far from humble abode and by the arrival of some pre-dinner snacks which saw us presented with juicy padron peppers , Beal ’ s Farm Mangalitsa charcuterie and freshly baked slices of focaccia that was so good we fought over it as well as the creamy Estate Dairy butter it came with .
Deserving of its continuing acclaim , dishes here are an absolute triumph .
The confit of Loch Duart salmon was artistry on a plate and latterly the mouth as the richness of the fish paired wonderfully with New Forest asparagus , cucumber , dill and dulse . The ricotta raviolo ( ordered in lieu of the crab only for allergy reasons !) proffered one heaving swirl of all at once mouth-pleasing pasta , creamy ricotta and three-cornered leeks bathed in a roasted onion broth and topped with herb oil that cut through with freshness .
I unashamedly won the main fight . Waylaying Mr Ready with the incredible Cornish cod , pan-seared to crisp golden-edge perfection with mouth textures of sprouting broccoli , peppery wild garlic (“ picked daily from our secret spot ”) and the delicate citrus freshness of lemon verbena , my lamb was indeed incredible . The loin served perfectly pink was promptly devoured , dunked with fervour into its respective black garlic puree and rich lamb jus . The belly exploded in the mouth with sticky richness , pairing brilliantly with that creamy mash which is indeed worthy of its recommendation . Yet it was the far-from-humble hotpot , served in its little copper pan , that stole the show in Adam Handling shepherd ’ s-pie-style modesty . Simple sliced potatoes slid across to reveal the lamb mince simply bursting with taste in a ‘ like nan would make it ’ lip-smacking flavour hug .
Puddings continue the traditional-withmodern-flair dining journey here .
While the crème brûlée was a classic dessert masterclass of vanilla-infused custard and soft , chewy chocolate chip cookie , the sticky toffee was an absolute show stealer . Rich , moist , drenched in caramel sauce , salted to offset that all too often over sweetness , we just kept going back for more !
Sated , we had time for a one-for-the-road coffee ( mine in espresso martini form ,
naturally ) while taking in one last moment in the pub . It was refreshing to see such calmness at the pass , steered by head chef David , and such efficiency across the dining space , though it ’ s notable that many of the team have been here right from the beginning .
And also to see that the brothers ’ steadfast commitment to their trusted trio of fresh , seasonal and local ingredients , combined with a genuinely warm yet ultra efficient service and a dining space oozing with personality and charm , was as evident as our first venture .
If you havent been , you simply must . If you have , we know like us you ’ ll soon be back , probably throughout the next decade . Happy birthday Kentish Hare !
The Kentish Hare 95 Bidborough Ridge Bidborough Royal Tunbridge Wells TN3 0XB www . thekentishhare . com
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