FOOD + DRINK
THE KENTISH HARE
A DECADE ON FROM ITS BURST ONTO THE KENTISH GASTROPUB SCENE , THE TANNER BROTHERS ’ ACCLAIMED BIDBOROUGH EATERY CONTINUES TO IMPRESS .
BY SAMANTHA READY .
Ten whole years feels like a lifetime in the hospitality industry , not least one hampered and hindered as it has been in the ensuing ( and sadly continuing ) post-pandemic chaos . Yet the Tanner brothers behind Bidborough ’ s most noteworthy establishment have more than ‘ just ’ a 10-year birthday to celebrate …
While it was hardly a reach to conclude that the first Kentish opening by the acclaimed chef siblings was going to be anything other than a gastronomic hit ( their collective CV reads like a hotlist of restaurant excellence - stints at Le Gavroche , New York and France under the Roux brothers before returning to England to open the three-AA-Rosette winning Kitley Hotel in Devon for Chris Tanner , and spells at the Rouxs ’ Lake Placid Lodge in New York and at the helm of the two-Michelin-starred Lettonie in Bath for brother James ), the duo ’ s Bidboroughbased gastropub continues to climb the ranks , a steady ride of acclaim that began just months after its 2014 opening .
Not many can attest to a whole decade of gastropub excellence .
Consistently getting better each year , and currently boasting two retained AA Rosettes alongside a 2021 Bib Gourmand and a number five ranking in the Estrella Damm Top 50 GastroPub rankings - an event they themselves hosted not so many moons ago - the bright , contemporary with a heritage nod pub really knows its stuff yet delivers it effortlessly unpretentiously .
Saved from developers and restored as a labour of love , the heritage building offers a near 50 / 50 split between its modern pub front half complete with cosy fireside bar , and the thriving dining room which also boasts a pretty suntrap alfresco terrace that continues to delight a daily full house of diners as perfected dishes appear from the open pass .
Contemporary with a heritage twist , the decor is a wonderful blend of muted modern neutrals offset with cosy traditional touches such as delicate herringbone Roman blinds and the pub ’ s signature hare , which notably presides from logo to art works to emblazoned throws and cushions . Here , the clever interior layout leads to natural nooks and differentiated dining options , most of which are framed by the wonderful vaulted wooden beam ceiling , which of course adds to its wide appeal to an array of diners encompassing families , ladies that lunch , romantic date night duos and celebratory friends who clamber to secure a still sought-after table .
Effortlessly greeted by the affable James and guided to a gardenside table , welcome conversation flowed to cover everything from the date of our last visit , evidently far too long ago , to recommended cocktails and favourite dishes . “ For starters , I highly recommend the crab tart ; the delicate pastry is infused with Parmesan and topped with both white and dark crab meat , although the salmon is also incredible and perfect for pictures , too .” Enthralled , main dish recommendations followed : “ Go for the lamb - a delicate loin , rich belly and black garlic puree ; it ’ s amazing and also comes with its own hotpot , trust me it ’ s incredible .” We were also gratefully prompted to order the creamed potato over the fries , which was declared so good James gets serious partner brownie points if there is ever any left to take home after service .
Left to peruse the menu at leisure , we were only distracted by a sneak peek of Chris Tanner who was busy in ambient prep mode much to the oblivion of our fellow diners
102 • www . insidekent . co . uk