Beautifully reimagined , the restaurant is accessed at the rear of the grand house , passing the flourishing kitchen garden ( which was hand planted by the family this spring ) to enter an alluring L-shaped space framed with floor-to-ceiling windows that , come summer , will offer views out across the gardens and beyond .
Invoking its position in the heart of the Garden of England , as well as the concept for kitchen gardenled seasonal dishes , albeit delivered in a hub of laidback luxury , the space is a flagstone-laid affair of contemporary heritage . Pale reclaimed oak beams , enormous wicker light shades , muted cream walls , classic wooden tables , and an eclectic mix of large plants and tiny herb pots . Subtle pops of colour appear from the understated heritage red and green banquette seats , while the modern gleaming bar brings a sense of grandeur to pre-dinner drinks .
The latter offered the perfect start to our evening as we took a high bar stool seat to indulge in the carefully curated cocktail menu . Sectioned into spritz , gin serves , highballs , no & low , and signature , our differentiated palates made light work of the Apples and Pears : Ciroc Apple , pear juice , vanilla nutmeg , lime , bitters and apple ; the Smoking Mezcal Negroni with a fresh twist of grapefruit ; and a classic Espresso , this particular incarnation offset with a spritz of fresh lemon - all of which led the demonstration of classicwith-a-twist that continues across the menus here .
Under the stewardship of the Lomases , but showcasing his own kitchen showmanship , head chef Robbie Lorraine has curated a well-conceived menu , the simplicity of courses belying the attention to detail that has channelled the whole concept across the entire Boys Hall offering .
Sectioned into snacks , starters , mains and dessert , there are no add-ons , additions or sides to be seen . Instead , each dish has been conceived to be entirely standalone .
Beginning with snacks , whose sparkling reputation already preceded them , our fellow first-time diners laid claim to the lobster doughnuts that they had already heard about ( and which lived up to deliciously decadent fantasy ), we shared (* read * fought over )
the ham hock fritters - think delicate croquette heaving with pulled ham - and the chickpea chips which offer a moreish alternative to traditional tortillas , especially when dunked in their accompanying harissa ketchup .
Starters proved to be one of the most challenging decisions of the evening with each of us balancing the tempting variety across which main we ’ d choose next … Ultimately , we were rewarded . The housecured blackened salmon offered the freshest pick , offset with cultured cream jelly , balsamic and dill . The potted Langland Farm duck was a table crowd pleaser with hints of apple and cranberry . The pumpkin and pear soup offered a hearty winter warmer , while my own slow-braised short rib of Longhorn beef was a sticky-glazed kiss in a bowl served with a hearty side of crushed potatoes and textures of puffed pearl barley .
Mains continued the modern British plate affair .
Guest one continued with his fish crusade devouring the pan-roasted fillet of wild sea bass with carrot ravioli and apple and seaweed broth . Prepared guest two moved from duck to beef , laying early claim to the Boys Hall rare-roasted sirloin of Longhorn beef served with signature ox cheek pie and beef dripping carrots . In a break from beef tradition , I was lured by the grilled breast of corn-fed chicken , the beetroot crisps proving a well received and tasty elevation ! While warmed from his soup , Mr R was rewarded with the dish of the evening : cider-braised belly of pork . Delicately and richly spiced and served with its own porky quaver , bacon jam , black pudding and apple sauce all cut through by shards of sour cabbage - it should not be ignored .
Dessert continued the simplistic elegance of its predecessors offering just three options alongside a hearty cheese plate . Opting for one of each across the table , the brown butter rice pudding offered a great nuance of the often too sweet dish , especially when paired with pickled blackberries and parsnip crisps . Laying claim to most hearty was the hazelnut shortbread , which offered a rich milk chocolate mousse , salted caramel and mellow malt ice cream . While the lemon meringue tart , having stolen the Insta-worthy crown , also delivered on the fresh
flavour punch too , with delicate lemon pearls offering extra zing .
But dining here is more than just a dish , it ' s an entire experience - assisted not least by the atmospheric allure and a fabulous food , drink and stay offering .
In more than a nod to Brad ’ s own wine connoisseurship , you ’ ll find a wine list which offers an intriguing journey across Kentish and international estate vintages , proffering an eclectic number of options for everyone from subtle by-the-glassers to notable palate-hitting , full-bodied seekers . Our Italian Masut da Rive , Isonzo del Friuli , Sauvignon Blanc , which offered a fresh aromatic and vivacious blend of citrus fruits with notes of elderberry for a remarkably reasonable £ 40 a bottle , paired exceptionally well across our myriad of dishes .
The ‘ pub ’ is like an accessible local members ’ club , without the price tag but with all the sense of wanting to belong . An ethos that draws each guest , whether they popped in for a pint ( of notable local ale of course ), nabbed a windowside dining room table , dined in sophisticated private dining seclusion , indulged in cocktails in the drawing room , or nibbled cheese and wine in a secluded fireside lounge to be fully encapsulated into the heart of the Boys Hall experience .
With rooms scheduled to open imminently , exciting paired taster menus already available , and a summer of grand plans to follow , the hard work thus far has evidently been worth it , and I for one can ’ t wait to see what the future holds - I just hope I can secure a spot !
Boys Hall Boys Hall Road Ashford Kent TN24 0LA
boys-hall . com boys . hall
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