insideKENT Magazine Issue 125 - September 2022 | Page 47

That said , there ’ s evidently been incredible clarity of thought and an awful lot of hard work that ’ s gone into the experience of a meal at herd . Experiential is , after all , today ’ s hospitality buzzword , with discerning diners looking for more than just good food on a pretty plate . A cool , but sophisticated journey of discovery , the herd . experience begins as soon as you step through the doors .
Originally opening on 1 June 1911 , the building originated as the Canterbury Electric Cinema , and subtle nods to this fascinating history remain . The home of two amazing high-backed chairs draped in cowhide that take centre stage ( a clever but not conceited link to the restaurant ’ s steak specialty and a great spot for social media pics ), the former cinema box office is now a sultry speakeasy bar where you can grab a drink and look at the menu while waiting for your table . An original oak-panelled corridor then leads to the pièce de résistance , the restaurant itself , via a super-stylish main bar custommade with an industrial décor of brushed metals and reclaimed wood .
herd .’ s interior design is a masterclass in how to nail consistent branding but without pretension , or worse , an obvious theme . Rich in teal-coloured leather , with lots of natural wood and flashes of gold that glint in the light that streams in from a huge floor-to-ceiling window , textured wallpaper in tones of gold complement the very contemporary but equally comfortable look . The vibe is exciting but relaxed ; the service attentive , but not intrusive ; and a laid-back soundtrack of varied music plays unobtrusively in the background allowing herd .’ s commendable commitment to sustainability and provenance take centre stage .
Everything at the restaurant , from the choice of decor to the produce their talented head chef Darryl Quested uses and the fabulous cocktail list , is inspired by the building ' s history , location and the characters
that have brought it to life over time . Their classic Old Fashioned for example is called the One Eleven as herd . threw open its doors exactly 111 years to the month that the original Electric Cinema did the same – and it ’ s these touches that highlight the owners ’ faultless attention to detail . Additionally , all of their produce ( including a local wine list to die for ) is sourced as locally as possible with the exception of their steak which is sourced from the best global stock including world-award-winning meat from Tom Hixson of Smithfield . Any non-local wines have been expertly chosen by local wine experts Clive Barlow , Canterbury ' s own Master of Wine , and Johnny Wren , director of Canterbury ’ s acclaimed Songbird Wines .
So , let ’ s talk about the food . I mentioned that head chef Darryl Quested was talented . He ’ s not . He ’ s astonishing . With an imaginative and clearly very natural culinary instinct , he has the chef ’ s equivalent of the Midas touch , which is why the menu is wonderfully uncomplicated . Divided into simple sections : graze , starters , mains , bird , land , fish , sides and pudding , there is something for everyone at herd . from whipped cod roe and bread ( taramasalata , but elevated to a heavenly level ) for smaller appetites , to tender , juicy burgers for the purists , and a Josper-grilled roasted cauliflower steak dripping in the salty-sweet richness of miso butter for any veggies in the house .
But this is a steak restaurant first and foremost , so it was to the steak section of the menu that my eyes immediately went . Cooked over the open flames of the Josper grill , we opted for a sharing board comprising last year ’ s World Steak Challenge winner – the diamond-grade Prussian Black , which was juicy and buttery with a lovely bite ; 48 – day aged , grass-fed ribeye - rich and beefy with earthy undertones ; and a chocolate-fed Irish wagyu with a deep almost caramel sweetness and a tenderness of texture that I ’ ve never in my life experienced . Outstanding ; every single one .
Other standout dishes were a zingy starter of citruscured mackerel , fennel escabeche and split buttermilk sauce , which sang with South American flavours ; Josper-grilled cabbage with toasted almonds and ginger butter – sweet , nutty and palate cleansing all at once ; and – because who could possibly resist – a Godminster cheddar mac and cheese , which oozed with velvety smooth , salty melted cheese underneath a crispy lid .
When you have the skill and technique to cook ingredients and bring out every ounce of their individual flavour like Quested clearly does , you don ’ t need to complicate your menu and the food served at herd . is not only testament to the fact that they know exactly who they are and what they ’ ve set out to become , but that elevated food doesn ’ t have to be served in an affected setting . It ’ s simply brilliant . I urge you to book .
49a St Peter ’ s Street Canterbury CT1 2BE info @ herdcanterbury . co . uk 01227 937467 www . herdcanterbury . co . uk
herd . canterbury
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