insideKENT Magazine Issue 125 - September 2022 | Page 108

GETAWAYS
Getaways : Dublin cont ...

MATT THE THRESHER

Dublin ’ s Acclaimed Seafood Gastropub
SET IN THE HEART OF GEORGIAN DUBLIN , BETWEEN MERRION SQUARE AND FITZWILLIAM SQUARE AND JUST A SHORT STROLL FROM ST STEPHEN ’ S GREEN AND THE THRIVING CITY BEYOND , MATT THE THRESHER IS THE EPITOME OF EXQUISITE FRESH SEAFOOD , CONTEMPORARY DINING AND FAULTLESS HOSPITALITY . BY SAMANTHA READY
The classic Georgian facade , while showcasing its class , somewhat belies the ingenious contemporary dining experience that awaits across the welcoming threshold at Matt the Thresher . Boasting a host of accolades including Best Gastro Pub , Best Seafood Experience and Best Irish Gastro Pub , and notable reviews from the likes of Richard Branson (“ Super food , lovely staff & fantastic service ”) and Michelle Obama (“ What a wonderful evening , the girls loved the seafood ”) no less , it came as little surprise that we had to vie even for a midweek early lunchtime table at this notable eatery .
The dining room here is a tardis-like affair of cosy fireside tables for two , clever larger booths , perfect for celebratory dinners , and a mezzanine level of cleverly set tables , all vying for attention past the incredible gleaming bar stocked with a great wine list and artisan spirits , and a stunning spiral sculptural art piece that cascaded from the ceiling , the perfect backdrop to showcase the restaurant ’ s utter commitment to the freshest wild Irish seafood .
Harnessing Dublin ’ s position as a seaside town , the restaurant takes in a daily morning catch of a wide range of the freshest fish available from both local Dublin harbours and those around the island . The result , not just freshly chalked daily specials which change not once but twice a day to harness the many different fresh fish on offer which complement the well conceived à la carte menu , but as anticipated , some of the best seafood dishes we have ever had the pleasure of devouring .
With Anthony Bourdain declaring the oysters here the best in Dublin , we naturally had to indulge , and we were certainly rewarded . Huge Carlingford Lough and Connemara Galway oysters were presented , each freshly shucked and served with cucumber and mint salsa , sauce mignonette and lemon , made even more perfect ( if that were even possible ) when washed down with a fresh cold pint of Guinness .
We , of course , kept the fish theme running for our starters ; a plate of delicately smoked salmon with heaving shards of fresh fish served with capers , caviar , crème fraîche and hunks of fresh soda bread , and pan-fried scallops - delicious gems of perfectly seared mollusc sat on smooth cauliflower purée with pancetta and a hefty slice of Irish black pudding ; both equally delicious .
For mains it took no persuading for Mr R to order one of the daily specials , opting after much deliberation for the fillet of cod with tomato , beans , peas , cockles and baby potatoes - the delicately flaking fish , perfectly pan-seared and utterly delicious . Going rogue , as one does when a ) wanting to test the menu and b ) being wary of shellfish allergies , I opted for one of the meat dishes . The dry-aged Irish fillet steak was perfectly seared and again utterly delicious , proving that Matt the Thresher ’ s skills extend far beyond their fish-based glory .
Full near to the brim we were naturally tempted by dessert and treated to a rich rhubarb and custard crumble with hints of cinnamon and a white chocolate and raspberry panna cotta to end our wonderful lunch experience .
With attentive service , incredible seafood and a beautiful dining space , Matt the Thresher is totally worthy of its acclaim , and as such should be top of your Dublin dining hotspots .
Matt the Thresher 31-32 Lower Pembroke Street Dublin 2 Dublin Ireland mattsdublin @ gmail . com
matts . ie threshersdublin
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