IDENTIDADES 1 ENGLISH IDENTIDADES 5 ENGLISH | Page 84

I can see Jorge is upset. We go through the produce market. He is astonished by the poor variety of fruit available: there is only papaya. He is distressed by all the flies that plague us when we get to where the pork was. It was being sold outdoors, in the heat. Out loud, he asks how they can sell meat without refrigeration. This seems to bother an older man who is waiting to make a purchase. Annoyed, he says something defensive: “it’s what we have.” ty. All in one day, they start living in one that is at the other extreme, developed, agile and abundant. This impact shakes deeply the most recent visitor. It is quite significant that the average Cuban has the poorest purchasing power of anyone in the Americas, and the situation is permanent and has persisted for decades. This translates into unstable shortages and the absence of the most basic elements for a Western country. I hastily take Jorge out of there, to avoid a confrontation. Finally, we arrive at the ice cream shop, and even though they charge in CUCs, there is a line, of course. We are told they have just made chocolate ice cream available. Not too many people are waiting, but Jorge can’t take standing in line in the sun. He remarks he is no longer used to it. How many Cubans know how to drive a vehicle? How many have bought or sold properties? How many have had or expanded businesses? What is the rate of per capita energy consumption? These unknowns and numbers continue being an inscrutable mystery. These and many other standard of living measures are basically unknown for the overwhelming majority; they are stuck living with impoverished subsidies. They are controlled and exhausted by the impossibility of exercising a minimum right to property or freedom. This is a case of legally imposed poverty, for life, a situation that is unique in this hemisphere. There is an abundant of filth and noise from a nearby bakery where they’ve just begun to sell bread, which creates a crowd at the counter. I know why: they will run out of bread too quickly. The shouting, the impossibility of being able to instantly enjoy an ice cream, the intense sun, with its unstoppable strength, make Jorge abandon his memory. He no longer asks any more questions. We return, in silence, drinking a semi-cold Bucanero beer. It was the only brand the small café had, for convertible currency, of course. Betrayals of memory As a result, the average Cuban has developed a very narrow profile as a consumer of anything. His choices are very limited, but he buys whatever is available. His mentality and habits are those of a primitive hunter-gatherer. He lives one day at a time. He has no time or knowledge about how to think about the future. There is a whole generation that has been brought up this way, and it is aging. What happened to this visitor seems to be a much more common phenomenon than Cuban émigrés might imagine. It clearly has a lot to do with their reactions to the changed environment. They leave a poor and socially stagnant socie- Does a radical and immediate change of place like immigrating to the United 84