IDENTIDADES 1 ENGLISH IDENTIDADES 5 ENGLISH | Page 83

The Unusual Emigrant Armando Soler Hernández Journalist Havana, Cuba ‘Listen, what I’d like to do is to get outta here and go to a country where the police will not jail you for saying what you think.’ Unidentified person to another on Galiano Street, Havana Coming face-to-face with reencountered reality He asked us to call him Jorge. He lives in Miami and has just returned from a vacation. He wants to see the neighborhood, friends, and confesses to me that he really wants to go to Monaco, a sort of motley shopping plaza called Monaco because of the old Monaco Theater, which is still standing. It was one of the most modern in Havana during the 1950s. he remembers how the place was very well. To convince me, he invites me to accompany him and eat some ice cream. By now, the short walk along Mayía Rodríguez Avenue begins to shock him. He is bothered by the smell of garbage on the corner of Carmen Street. It was already picked up, but a bunch of trash accumulated during the week and was rotting under the strong sun. What’s special about the Monaco for you, I ask him? He says it’s a very pretty place where he had many good times when he was younger. Jorge is 37 years old. When I ask when he emigrated he answers over two years ago, almost three. Confused, I say that this place, where many of the stores and businesses still exist, hasn’t changed much, except, maybe, for the small selling stands that overflow in the parking lot in front of the old and almost empty grocery store. Yet, he shakes his head ‘no.’ He states “Damn! Everything is so abandoned and dirty!” he admits. And he’s not only referring to the surroundings. In spite of a few private businesses I point out to him along our way, I begin to feel that all is not well with the way he is remembering things. Many of the people we run into seem quite aged to him, as are the homes along what used to be a beautiful, still tree-lined, avenue. Yet, it seems that it is the sight of the very center of Monaco that finally destroys his memory of things. 83