.www.thequiltshow.com is focussing this year on a great acronym (so I just have to ‘borrow’ their words and
say, “That’s what we’ll do as well! It’s too good not to share”)
Join us in the new year where we will bring new LIFE to your quilting.
L=Learning I=Inspiration F=Finishing E=Entering (quilt shows)
Table plans cont….
table. It might be worth cutting out a small area to the side to reach your cords from the top of the table,
as you can see my friend did in the image at the bottom
of this page.
Machine length + ¼″
2) Before cutting the hole with a jigsaw, first drill a pilot hole on the inside of your soon-to-be hole. Then
place the jigsaw bit in the hole and start cutting from
Machine
width +
there. Gently curve onto the line you traced and con¼″
tinue until you finish cutting out the hole. Then use
sandpaper to sand the edges smooth. Using sandpaper
around a large dowel/pipe help smooth out the corner
radius. Test with your sewing machine to make sure it
fits in and out (it should be snug, but you shouldn’t
have to fight to get it out). Keep sanding with coarse paper at until you get it to size, then smooth it down
with fine sandpaper. If you accidentally cut it too wide, gluing a a craft foam strip along the edges will
help keep it in place and dampen any vibrations.
3) Cut the 2″ x2″ board into two pieces, each to the distance between the supports of your table. (You could opDrill diameter 5/8” - 3/8” deep,
tionally have cut them shorter and attach to the right side
drill diam. 3/8” thru
or top only… it all depends on your materials, table and
machine.) At this point, if your tabletop is already off,
you could attach the 2″ x2″ s with a pocket screw to the
front and back, but it’s not necessary. Mark the 4 bolt
holes (used to support the machine) just to the inside of
Could attach here or just use
the width of the machine as shown in the image b