Gold Magazine December 2013 - January 2014, Issue 33 | Page 81

The typical timeframe for investment in Champagne to mature is between seven to ten years quality. For example, it took Dom Perignon nine years before they were happy to release their 2002 vintage.” Investors, likewise, must not be in a rush. Assemakis continues: “The typical timeframe for investment in Champagne to mature is between seven to ten years.” With numbers having already been creeping steadily up, the suggestion from the experts seems to indicate that Champagne’s investment story is wilfully budding, but has yet to come into full, prosperous bloom: an exciting prospect. Nurturing this flowering is the image that Champagne holds within society. Gibbs explains: “Champagne is what is drunk in the casinos of the world, on the yachts of oligarchs and by footballers’ wives, so there is an element of flash money about it.” Aggressive branding has associated Champagne with success, celebratory occasions, and unremitting recreation. Thus, no matter how deep the volume of production and wide the distribution may be (Moet et Chandon alone produces almost 30 million bottles annually), Champagne gets drunk and quickly. Gibbs elaborates as to the consequences of the immediacy with which Champagne is consumed: “As a result, a vintage can become scarce within a couple of years of being released by the producer. As the supply of the highest-quality Champagnes declines, the price quickly rises.” With stocks already considered diminished, the stress on supply is further aggravated by the widening of markets setting their sights upon this special sparkling wine. Assemakis notes that European Fine Wines has seen a solid spike in demand for top quality Champagne from across Asia – particularly from China and Singapore – endeavouring to expand horizons profitably. Indeed, Sotheby’s hosted an auction in Hong Kong in January of 2013, selling vintage magnums (a bottle with capacity of 1.5 litres) from 1921, 1929 and 1947, raising some HKD 239,000, the equivalent of about €22,800. Further auctions have, unsurprisingly, been scheduled. Indeed, closer to Champagne’s home, one of the grandest of the Grand Marques, Moet et Chandon, made history with its Sotheby’s collaboration, resulting in November 2013’s Moet Grand Vintage Auction. In celebration of its 270th anniversary, the marque’s Chef de Cave, Benoit Gouez, personally selected 270 bottles of Blanc and Rose Champagnes to commemorate each active year since the house was founded in 1743. Vintages spanned a century, ranging from the latest 2004 release all the way back to 1914. Furthermore, 174 magnums and three jeroboams were put forward for auction to honour the founding date. The 74 lots came to auction direct from Moet et Chandon’s 28km of cellars located in Epernay, Champagne. Sotheby’s Worldwide Head of Wines, trasts (combining late frosts and poor flowering with a warm and dry period prior to picking), and a consequential 30% decrease in yield, the grapes picked nevertheless possessed a fine balance between sugar and acid that has been described as not only exceptional, but rare. So, the overriding message in Champagne’s bottle? Perhaps, in the end, the New Year may be better celebrated by carefully storing that vintage bottle of Champagne bought for the occasion, and toasting, instead, with a glass of fizzy lemonade! A special poignancy is embodied in the 1914 vintage, due to it being the last one picked before the full onset of World War I Serena Sutcliffe, said of the occasion: “We have never before held an auction of this scale, with such a selection of rare and fine Champagnes from one producer.” So, how did the auction fare? Surprising even the experts, the vintage bottles consistently outshone their designated high estimates. Three two-bottle lots of the 1921 vintage averaged a selling price of £8,813 versus a top estimate of £5,200 per lot. Likewise, three lots of one bottle of the 1928 vintage commanded an impressive £5,400 each, despite their top-price estimate of £2,400 per bottle. Perhaps most impressive of all, however, were the three lot sales of two 1914 vintages, which collectively sold for almost £25,000. Industry insiders explain that a special poignancy is embodied in the 1914 vintage, due to it being the last vintage picked before the full onset of World War I. In total, the Moet Grand Vintage Auction amassed £147,333 over two days. More gainful than money, however, is the metamorphosing appreciation of Champagne’s place in a collector’s portfolio. Of this, Gouez insightfully commented: “I want to show that great vintage Champagnes are also great wines and the fact that there has been so much interest in this auction shows that more and more collectors understand this.” And the positivity does not end here. Respected experts, such as Charles Philipponnat of Krug, suggest that the 2012 growing season is poised to create a luminous vintage, rivalling even the most celebrated predecessors. Despite being a year of weather con- BOOK REVIEW The Goldfinch  By Donna Tartt (Little, Brown, 2013) D RRP: £20 (£10.51 from amazon.co.uk) onna Tartt, author of the phenomenal bestsellers The Secret History and The Little Friend, returns with a remarkable new