#FlyWashington Magazine Fall 2019 | Page 38

Restaurant Alois Credit: Stefan Randlkofer CITY OF ROYALS For 400 years, the House of Wittelsbach lived and ruled from the Residenz palace in what is today the heart of Munich’s Old Town, or Altstadt. Its 130 rooms, built and remodeled over centuries, evolved from Renaissance to Baroque, Rococo, and Classical styles. Highlights include frescoed walls and ceilings depicting scenes from the epic 13th-century German poem, “Nibelungenlied,” as well as vast collections of silver, gilt furniture, and porcelain. The royal treasury holds the Bavarian crown jewels, gem-studded reliquaries, and stunning goldsmith work. When life in the heart of Munich became unbearably warm, the Wittelsbachs relocated a few miles west to Nymphenburg Palace, Germany’s largest Baroque palace and the Bavarian royals’ summertime residence. Begun in 1664, the castle took more than 150 years to finish and remains a high point of any Munich visit; particularly the frescoes of Flora, the mythological goddess of the nymphs for whom this palace was named; and the Gallery of Beauties, 36 portraits of Munich’s loveliest (and presumably Ludwig I’s favorite) 19th- century women. Museum of Urban and Contemporary Art Credit: Heinz Bunse Just outside the palace, Nymphenburg Porcelain Manufactory creates porcelain works entirely by hand, just as it has since 1747. The brilliantly-colored bird figurines, tea services, and vases are so fine, so universally popular, that they are often referred to by buyers as Munich’s “white gold.” CITY OF ART More than 80 museums fan across Munich, The center of the city’s art and cultural scene is the Kunstareal (Art District). The Alte Pinakothek, the granddaddy of Munich’s art museums, hosts the Wittelsbach’s personal collection, including works by masters like Raphael, Titian, Rembrandt, Dürer, and Bruegel. Across the street, the Pinakothek der Moderne might be considered four museums in one, with wings dedicated to modern art, architecture, design, and prints and drawings. Fall 2019 sees the launch of several exhibitions including African Ceramics (through March 2020), drawing and etchings by Rembrandt (through mid-Oct. 2020), and paintings by Van Dyck (through Jan. 2020). For a modern edge, start with Museum Brandhorst — itself a work of art, with a facade composed of 36,000 vertical ceramic louvres in 23 different colors. Inside, find the FLYWASHINGTON.COM 36 AUTUMN 2019