largest Andy Warhol collection in Europe, and Cy Twombly collection
outside the U.S., plus significant works by Jeff Koons and Sigmar Polke,
among many others.
Check out the contemporary scene at the Museum of Urban and
Contemporary Art, or MUCA, which displays urban and street art in a
former municipal transformer station. Docents offer tours for those who
want to learn about the artists’ philosophies and methods. Temporary
exhibitions focus on graffiti, photography, and “calligraffiti.”
But in Munich, one doesn’t need to step inside to find incredible
art — it’s inscribed in the facades of the often stunning architecture
throughout Old Town. Start at the ornate cathedrals, chief among
them, the 15th-century Frauenkirche. The church’s twin onion-dome
towers soar above any other building in Munich (by law) and grace
a Gothic edifice, just blocks from the Marienplatz. This central town
square is a great spot for outdoor dining, shopping, and watching the
colorful Glockenspiel that depicts Munich historical scenes daily.
CITY OF GREENSPACES
Tracing its roots to palatial hunting grounds and parks like the
royal Hofgarten near the Residenz and the Baroque gardens of
the Schlosspark Nymphenburg, Munich boasts many green spaces
making it easy to escape the city’s traffic and buzz in favor of a tranquil
morning run or evening stroll.
Olympiapark, a 200-acre parkland home to the 1972 Olympic Games,
lies northwest of center, and is crisscrossed by pedestrian and cycle
paths. Ascend the Olympic Tower for views of both the city and
German Alps, cruise around the grounds via miniature railway, or fly
across the landscape on a zipline.
Far larger is the Englischer Garten, or English Garden, a 900-acre green
space that ranks as the world’s largest inner city park. Pedestrian and
bicycle paths traverse the garden, wending past forest, meadows,
streams, and lakes. On its southernmost reaches is the Eisbachwelle, a
continuous wave on the Isar River ridden by urban surfers year-round.
Four beer gardens occupy the park’s grounds, the most famous being
the pagoda-inspired Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower).
CITY OF CUISINE
The traditional Munich drinking and dining experience centers on the
Bavarian beer hall, promising oversized mugs of German lager, grilled
sausages, and rousing drinking songs. The Hofbräuhaus ranks among
Munich’s most famous, but notable (and less crowded) favorites
include Andechser am Dom, the Löwenbräukeller, and the Beer
and Oktoberfest Museum, with its accompanying displays related
to Germany’s favorite drink. You’ll find a beer garden at Munich’s
Viktualienmarkt as well. But the historic farmer’s market goes beyond
sausages and beer, selling fresh, locally-sourced, organic cheese, wine,
honey, and produce since 1807.
Tick your Michelin Star — two of them, in fact — at Tantris, considered
by many to serve the finest meal in the country. The posh, orange
tinted interior has changed little since opening in the early 1970s,
but the French-style cuisine remains on the cutting edge and is best
experienced in multi-course degustation menus.
One of Munich’s hottest restaurants, Alois Dallmayr, is also its oldest.
Germany’s most famous delicatessen, and former “Royal Purveyor to
the Bavarian Court,” dates from 1700 and serves fine fruits, sauces,
cheeses, chocolates, and so much more. In late 2018, Dallmayr’s sous
chef Christoph Kunz opened the new Restaurant Alois, a fine-dining
space offering a menu of six to eight courses — all locally sourced
and elegantly prepared. And the 800-label wine list? It’s just another
opportunity to toast Munich.
GETTING THERE
Travel nonstop from Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD) to Munich Airport (MUC) on United Airlines and Lufthansa. Flights take
approximately eight hours one way. Once in Germany, the S1 and S8 S-Bahn train lines make the half-hour trip into Munich’s city center every 10 minutes.
Munich
Credit: Getty
AUTUMN 2019 37 FLYWASHINGTON.COM