Restaurant Alois
Credit: Stefan Randlkofer
CITY OF ROYALS
For 400 years, the House of Wittelsbach lived
and ruled from the Residenz palace in what
is today the heart of Munich’s Old Town, or
Altstadt. Its 130 rooms, built and remodeled
over centuries, evolved from Renaissance
to Baroque, Rococo, and Classical styles.
Highlights include frescoed walls and ceilings
depicting scenes from the epic 13th-century
German poem, “Nibelungenlied,” as well
as vast collections of silver, gilt furniture,
and porcelain. The royal treasury holds
the Bavarian crown jewels, gem-studded
reliquaries, and stunning goldsmith work.
When life in the heart of Munich became
unbearably warm, the Wittelsbachs relocated
a few miles west to Nymphenburg Palace,
Germany’s largest Baroque palace and the
Bavarian royals’ summertime residence.
Begun in 1664, the castle took more than 150
years to finish and remains a high point of any
Munich visit; particularly the frescoes of Flora,
the mythological goddess of the nymphs for
whom this palace was named; and the Gallery
of Beauties, 36 portraits of Munich’s loveliest
(and presumably Ludwig I’s favorite) 19th-
century women.
Museum of Urban and Contemporary Art
Credit: Heinz Bunse
Just outside the palace, Nymphenburg
Porcelain Manufactory creates porcelain
works entirely by hand, just as it has since
1747. The brilliantly-colored bird figurines, tea
services, and vases are so fine, so universally
popular, that they are often referred to by
buyers as Munich’s “white gold.”
CITY OF ART
More than 80 museums fan across Munich, The
center of the city’s art and cultural scene is the
Kunstareal (Art District). The Alte Pinakothek,
the granddaddy of Munich’s art museums,
hosts the Wittelsbach’s personal collection,
including works by masters like Raphael, Titian,
Rembrandt, Dürer, and Bruegel.
Across the street, the Pinakothek der
Moderne might be considered four museums
in one, with wings dedicated to modern art,
architecture, design, and prints and drawings.
Fall 2019 sees the launch of several exhibitions
including African Ceramics (through March
2020), drawing and etchings by Rembrandt
(through mid-Oct. 2020), and paintings by Van
Dyck (through Jan. 2020).
For a modern edge, start with Museum
Brandhorst — itself a work of art, with a
facade composed of 36,000 vertical ceramic
louvres in 23 different colors. Inside, find the
FLYWASHINGTON.COM 36 AUTUMN 2019